45 gallons · room to grow

How to Set Up a JBJ RF-45 Saltwater Aquarium

This guide turns my JBJ RF-45 beginner video series into one written setup plan. We will start with the empty aquarium, build the system, cycle it using real test results, and add animals only after the tank—and your maintenance routine—are ready.

JBJ-001 · complete track preview

The roomiest beginner tank in this series

The JBJ RF-45 gives you much more room for rockwork, fish, and coral than the DeskMate or HelloReef. The tradeoff is that it needs a dedicated place in your home, more equipment, larger water changes, and a support plan for a filled system that weighs roughly 500 pounds.

45 gallons26.5 × 22 × 19-inch low-iron glass AIO aquarium
Matching stand26.5 × 22 × 36 inches; aquarium and stand package
Nine chaptersEvery chapter has a readiness check and stop condition

Affiliate disclosure: The Bulk Reef Supply product and episode links in this guide are Impact affiliate links. If you make a purchase after following one, My First Fish Tank may receive a commission at no additional cost to you.

An all-in-one aquarium is not an all-inclusive kit
The selected package includes the aquarium, stand, two return pumps, two filter socks, and flare nozzles. You still need lighting, heating, rock and sand, RO/DI water and salt, salinity and cycle testing, mixing and maintenance tools, and livestock later.
1

Build the physical system

Choose the location, inspect the tank, plan the equipment, build the aquascape, mix saltwater, and get the system running safely.

Start the build

2

Cycle and stabilize

Cycle with test results, keep temperature and salinity steady, prepare for the first fish, and practice a maintenance routine you can repeat.

Start the cycle

3

Add livestock slowly

Choose livestock carefully, upgrade equipment only when it solves a real problem, and wait for the aquarium to settle before you add something else.

Plan livestock

1

Milestones 1–4

Choose the Location, Inspect the Tank, and Plan the Equipment

By the end of this section, the empty aquarium should be level, safely supported, undamaged, easy to work around, and ready for the rest of the build.

Why this mattersA filled JBJ RF-45 can approach 500 pounds. Location, floor support, access to power and water, heat, sunlight, and maintenance clearance are setup decisions—not details to solve after filling.
  1. Confirm the floor and stand can safely support the completed system. Get qualified help if the structure, lease, or electrical plan raises a real question.
  2. Avoid long periods of direct sun, strong heat sources, drafts, and locations that make water changes difficult.
  3. Inspect the glass, seams, stand, mat, pumps, socks, nozzles, cords, and included media before adding water.
  4. Center and level the aquarium on the supplied mat and stand. Preserve access to the rear chambers and cabinet.
  5. Plan GFCI-protected power where appropriate, drip loops, dry plug placement, and enough outlets without unsafe daisy chains.
Ready when: the empty system is level, stable, fully supported, undamaged, serviceable, and has a safe power and water route.
Stop and fix first: questionable floor support, a damaged seam or cord, an unlevel stand, direct heat, inaccessible rear chambers, or plugs exposed to pooling water.
Next

Build stable rockwork and a maintainable sand bed.

Continue to aquascaping

2

Milestone 5

Build Stable Rockwork and a Maintainable Sand Bed

Build rockwork with hiding places and swimming room, but leave enough space for water flow, cleaning, and future coral growth.

  • Build the structure outside the aquarium first. Test several layouts before committing.
  • Create hiding places and swimming lanes without turning the display into a solid wall.
  • Leave space between rock and glass for cleaning and around the structure for water movement.
  • Stabilize the rock on a firm base; do not rely on loose sand to hold a top-heavy stack.
  • Add only the sand depth you intend to maintain, and keep it out of the rear chambers.
Ready when: the rock resists gentle pressure, leaves cleaning clearance, preserves flow paths, and cannot shift if a burrowing animal moves sand later.
Stop and fix first: wobbling rock, pressure against the glass, blocked overflow teeth, dead-flow pockets, or no access for a cleaning tool.
Next

Prepare RO/DI water, salt, heat, salinity measurement, and the first fill.

Continue to water and heat

3

Milestone 6

Make Saltwater, Install Heat, Fill, and Tune the AIO

By the end of this section, the saltwater should be measured, the temperature should be steady, the rear chambers should be at the normal running level, and the equipment should be working the same way every day.

  1. Use RO/DI water or another suitable purified source. Do not assume tap water is acceptable.
  2. Mix saltwater in a clean container with circulation and heat. Add salt to water, allow it to dissolve, and measure the result with a calibrated instrument.
  3. Fill slowly to protect the aquascape and sand bed. Bring the rear chamber to the manufacturer’s operating level.
  4. Install the heater where it remains safely submerged and verify actual temperature with an independent thermometer.
  5. Run both returns, inspect for leaks, confirm even overflow behavior, and mark the normal operating level so evaporation is obvious.
Evaporation ruleReplace evaporated water with fresh RO/DI water, not saltwater. Salt stays behind when water evaporates.
Ready when: salinity and temperature are measured and stable, the aquarium is leak-free, the returns and overflows operate consistently, and you can reproduce the normal water level.
Stop and fix first: unverified salinity, unstable temperature, a heater exposed to air, bubbles or noise caused by a low return chamber, or any leak.
Next

Start a fishless cycle, write down your test results, and keep the basic conditions steady.

Continue to cycling

4

Milestones 7–8

Cycle the aquarium and make sure it stays stable

Choose one fishless cycling method, follow its directions, and write down the test results with dates. The tank is ready when the cycle works—not when an arbitrary number of days has passed.

  • Choose one complete cycling method and follow its current directions. Do not combine partial instructions from several products.
  • Test and record ammonia and any other parameters required by that method. Include dates, results, and anything added.
  • Keep salinity, temperature, circulation, and top-off consistent while bacteria establish.
  • Delay normal reef-light intensity unless the method or a deliberate maturation plan requires it.
  • Use the cycling method’s final test to confirm that the aquarium can process waste. Time by itself does not prove the cycle is finished.
Ready when: the chosen method’s evidence gate passes, ammonia is undetectable at confirmation, temperature and salinity are stable, and the system has a repeatable daily check.
Stop and fix first: detectable ammonia at the confirmation check, conflicting test results, a drifting salinity or temperature, or uncertainty about what was dosed.
Next

Choose an appropriate first fish and prepare the care routine before bringing it home.

Continue to first-fish readiness

5

Milestone 9

Get ready for your first fish

Choose a fish that fits both the tank and your long-term livestock plan. Buy the right food and decide how you will handle arrival, acclimation, observation, and possible health problems before you bring the fish home.

  • Confirm adult size, temperament, diet, swimming needs, compatibility, and whether the fish is known to jump.
  • Plan the whole early stocking sequence before choosing the first animal. The first fish changes what can be added later.
  • Have the correct food, a secure lid strategy, and a realistic quarantine or observation plan ready.
  • Introduce a small, appropriate bioload and monitor ammonia, behavior, breathing, feeding, and temperature closely.
Kalkwasser is not a beginner requirementEpisode 5 discusses kalkwasser alongside water parameters. Do not dose it because it appears in the video. Use it only when measured demand, a defined goal, appropriate testing, and a safe dosing plan justify it.
Ready when: the cycle gate has passed, the chosen fish fits the long-term plan, the care supplies are ready, and you can observe the aquarium closely after introduction.
Stop and fix first: ammonia, an unsuitable or aggressive species, no secure top for a jumper, no appropriate food, visible disease, or no plan for what comes next.
Next

Fish, coral, cleanup crew, and other invertebrates are separate decisions. Research each one instead of treating “livestock” like a single shopping list.

Continue to livestock planning

6

Milestones 9–10

Plan your livestock before you buy it

Use the video to understand the different kinds of animals you could add. Do not copy it as a shopping list.

Do not copy the episode’s stocking planThe series shows an experienced aquarist adding many animals over time. A new owner should not reproduce that quantity, pace, or exact list. Each addition must fit the tank’s current stability, existing animals, and the owner’s capacity to observe and respond.
  • Fish: choose by adult size, behavior, compatibility, diet, and the aquarium’s existing social order.
  • Cleanup crew: add only enough animals to address an observed food source. Do not add a package automatically.
  • Coral: confirm lighting, flow, placement, stability, and care requirements for the exact coral.
  • Other invertebrates: check diet, reef safety, molting needs, compatibility, and whether the tank can support them.
  • Leave time between additions and watch what happens. The aquarium sets the pace, not your shopping schedule.
Ready when: the next animal has a specific fit, the system has been stable since the previous change, and you know how you will feed, observe, and respond.
Stop and fix first: unexplained parameter movement, aggression, disease, poor feeding, algae assumed to justify a generic cleanup crew, or any animal chosen mainly because it appears in the episode.
Next

Establish the maintenance routine before considering convenience upgrades.

Continue to maintenance

7

Milestones 8–10

Get the weekly maintenance routine working first

The video series showed upgrades before maintenance. I am reversing that order here because you should get the basic routine working before you add more equipment and more things that need cleaning.

  • Observe animals and equipment daily. Confirm temperature, return flow, water level, and normal behavior.
  • Top off evaporation with fresh RO/DI water and keep salinity consistent.
  • Change or clean mechanical filtration before trapped waste breaks down.
  • Perform a repeatable water change with matched temperature and salinity, and clean reachable detritus without destabilizing the system.
  • Test the parameters that help you make a real decision, and write the results down often enough to see whether they are changing.
  • Inspect pumps, heater, ATO, cords, and rear chambers on a schedule you can sustain.
Ready when: you can complete the routine without missing supplies, creating salinity swings, exposing equipment, or leaving the system less stable than it began.
Stop and fix first: irregular top-off, an overflowing sock, unknown salinity, missed water changes because the process is too difficult, or equipment you cannot access for cleaning.
Next

Consider an upgrade only after you can name the problem it will solve and the maintenance it adds.

Continue to optional upgrades

8

Optional layer

Upgrade only when you can name the problem

Random-flow returns, powerheads, UV, new pumps, controllers, and other upgrades are tools. You do not need to buy them just because the aquarium has reached a certain age.

  1. Before you shop, say exactly what problem you are trying to solve.
  2. First make sure the existing equipment, maintenance, or placement cannot solve the problem more simply.
  3. Check whether the upgrade adds heat, cords, failure points, calibration, cleaning, or recurring cost.
  4. Change one meaningful variable at a time and record the result.
  5. Keep the original equipment until the replacement proves reliable.
Ready when: the need is observable, the benefit is defined, the installation is safe, and the added maintenance fits your routine.
Stop and fix first: buying because the item appears in the video, trying to automate an unstable routine, or changing several systems at once without a way to judge the result.
Next

Add more livestock only after the aquarium has absorbed earlier changes and remains stable.

Continue to intentional growth

9

Milestone 10 and ongoing care

Add more animals one at a time

Add one animal at a time for a reason. Compatibility, aquarium stability, and long-term care matter much more than buying something new because it looks cool.

  • Review the current animals, available space, territory, feeding, nutrient trend, and equipment capacity before every addition.
  • Research the exact species—not only the broad category—and plan its adult needs.
  • Use quarantine, observation, dipping, or acclimation appropriate to the animal and your disease-risk plan.
  • Add slowly enough to notice cause and effect. Record dates and meaningful changes.
  • Keep maintenance and emergency capacity ahead of the aquarium’s growing bioload.
Track complete when: the system is stable, the routine is sustainable, each animal has an intentional place, and you know what evidence would make you pause the next addition.
Stop and fix first: aggression, disease, nutrient instability, an animal failing to eat, crowding, maintenance falling behind, or uncertainty about the next species’ care.
The goal is not to finish stocking quicklyThe goal is to build a reef you can understand and care for. A larger aquarium gives you options; it does not require you to use them all.