My First Fish Tank https://myfirstfishtank.com/ The Beginner Guide To Saltwater Aquariums Tue, 04 Mar 2025 00:30:34 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://myfirstfishtank.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/cropped-My-First-Fish-Tank-Logo-e1598279889182-4-32x32.png My First Fish Tank https://myfirstfishtank.com/ 32 32 22 Essential Things to Know Before Setting Up Your First Saltwater Aquarium https://myfirstfishtank.com/things-i-wish-i-knew/ Tue, 04 Mar 2025 00:08:17 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=531891 Discover the 22 things I wish I knew before setting up a saltwater aquarium and avoid common beginner mistakes.

The post 22 Essential Things to Know Before Setting Up Your First Saltwater Aquarium appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Here are 22 things I wish I knew before setting up my first saltwater aquarium:

1. Clownfish Can Live For Decades

No joke, I thought they would be like goldfish. And actually I’ve recently learned that goldfish can live for a long time! I mean, that shows you how little I knew about saltwater aquariums.

I went to a local fish store in Seattle over 20 years ago now, and they had a clownfish that was over 20 years old! That’s amazing!

So when you go out and you get a dog or a cat, you know you have a 15-year commitment. The same is true when you pick up a clownfish, except they might live even longer.

a clownfish against a white background
Orange Storm Ocellaris Clownfish

2. There Are Easy & Hard Saltwater Aquariums

What I find really annoying, looking back, is that in this hobby we tend to put everything together and say saltwater aquariums are really easy or saltwater aquariums are really hard. But that’s just nonsensical.

It’s like saying the piano is really easy or the piano is really hard. If you’re just going to play chopsticks, then the piano is pretty easy, but if you want to play Rachmaninoff, piano can be hard.

The same is true for saltwater aquariums. There are easy saltwater aquariums and there are complicated saltwater aquariums, so do not confuse the two. Know which one you’re looking for, and that will just make your life so much better in this hobby.

Click below to explore each tank…

a middle aged caucasian male taking a picture of a small saltwater tank.
Easy... (HelloReef Kit)
Hard (Caribbean Garden)

3. Corals & Anemones Can Live Forever

I’m not joking about that. We know of corals and anemones that are hundreds, maybe even a couple thousand years old. As far as we know, because of how they reproduce, because of how they grow, they do not have an aging mechanism like us human beings do. You can tell an infant versus a 90-year-old person because we age. Corals and anemones don’t necessarily have that.

It’s true they are an indicator species, meaning if something’s going wrong with the Earth, going wrong in their environment, then they are going to be one of the first to show distress.

Knowing that you’re picking up an animal that can live for hundreds or thousands of years, I think that’s a really important thing to know. You’re not just picking up something that you can have for a year and then get rid of. You’re picking up an animal that can live for your lifetime, for your children, for your grandchild’s lifetime, and I think you should know the responsibility that goes along with that.

4. Most Beginners Quit Before The End of Year One

I didn’t realize this, but over a decade in this hobby now, it’s clearly true. But why?

The thing about starting a saltwater aquarium is it’s complicated. It’s just like any hobby out there. There is a ton to learn, and there are going to be a lot of mistakes made along the way. Unfortunately, a lot of beginners get into the hobby thinking it’s a goldfish tank, or you can plop a betta in some sort of bowl. And let me be clear, goldfish and betta fish need quite a bit more than just a bowl, but that’s just been our popular understanding for years.

We need to shift that understanding to something a little bit more realistic, that these are pets, beloved pets, like our dogs and our cats, and they deserve that much respect and that much care, which means we need to give them the right environment, the right nutrition, the right attention.

So when I say beginners quit after year one, they quit not because it’s too difficult but because they thought they were getting a goldfish in a bag, and that was all they had to do. Us as hobbyists, we need to help beginners and help them succeed by also being a little bit honest with them.

5. Some Saltwater Aquarists Have Strong Opinions

This is true with anything, of course, but it’s especially true amongst saltwater hobbyists. I have been moderating my own YouTube channel and website for many years now, and have large profanity filters on both because there are some people who say horrific things.

And since they are my channels and I can control what is said, I just don’t let that fly. If you’re not going to be respectful to me, if you’re not going to be respectful to anybody else in the hobby, then I’m not going to give you a voice.

I think that’s important to know when you’re starting out in the hobby, that not everybody is nice. There are plenty of nice people out there, and I would say the vast majority of other hobbyists are going to be super friendly and helpful. But be aware there are some not-so-nice people, so do your best to block them out.

6. You're Going to Spend a Lot More Money Than You Think

First you have your upfront costs, all the gear you need, water, salt, lights, pumps, plus quite a bit more. Then there are your ongoing costs.

But oftentimes we overlook the fact that we are going to fall in love with this hobby, and that means we’re going to want more fish and more coral, and we’re going to want more expensive fish and brightly colored, more expensive coral.

I learned advice years ago that I think applies here. When you’re going on some big vacation, what you need to do is lay out all your clothes and all your money. Then get rid of half your clothes and double your money. That has been really good advice for me while traveling and also really good advice in this hobby. Just have a realistic sense that it’s probably going to cost more than you think.

7. If You Don't Quarantine Everything, You Will Get Ich

Some people can get away without quarantining for years and they think they’ve hit some sort of jackpot, but really, all they’ve done is gotten lucky. The only way to avoid ich in your tank is through a quarantine process. Now, most beginners, most hobbyists in general, do not do this, but if you want to be sure that your tank is always free from ich, you’re going to have to set up a quarantine regimen for everything, fish, inverts, and corals.

8. You're Going To Make Mistakes

You just are…You’re not perfect. I’m not perfect. You’re going to screw things up, and that’s okay.

What’s not okay is to make a mistake and just give up. Don’t do that. We’re all making mistakes in this hobby. Even experts make mistakes in this hobby. I have made so many mistakes in the hobby, and that’s okay. Just remember this: when you make a mistake, learn from that mistake, and you’re going to become a better hobbyist.

9. Bad Things Will Happen Inside Your Aquarium

No matter how perfect you are at this hobby, no matter how much quarantine you do beforehand, things are going to go wrong. Yes, even big, huge expert tanks have things go wrong. It can be illness that you don’t know how it got there. It can be algae outbreaks. It can be some sort of nutrient imbalance. But knowing that, I think, will help you in the long run, because number one, you’re not alone, and number two, knowing that mistakes will happen will keep you vigilant so that you can correct them when they do.

10. You Will Need Somebody To Take Care Of Your Tank When On Vacation

Yes, you can automate a lot of the process. You can buy a Neptune Apex. You can buy automatic feeders, auto top-off units, and leak detectors. You can do all of that, and for a decent amount of time, your tank can run really smoothly, but things can go wrong.

Just for example, I was gone on a cruise and my son said, “Hey, your tank’s making a loud noise. What’s going on?” The auto top-off unit just decided to crap out while I was gone. If somebody wasn’t checking in on my tank, that would have been it. Dead pets, and dead gear.

So if you’re going on a longer vacation you will need somebody to come and look in on your tanks for you.

Click on the images below if you want to check out my preferred automatic feeder (great for a weekend getaway).

My favorite automatic feeder
I use this stand too

11. Tinkering Is Bad

If you are a tinkerer like me, stop it! You need to let things settle. You need to let things just kind of have a natural landing place.

Tinkering constantly, whether it’s tinkering with your water changes, what kind of salt you’re using, different pump settings— I mean, who knows what it is. I was always tinkering when I was a beginner. Adjusting how much GFO I put in, changing the pump to this location, changing the flow rate. My corals hated me because what they wanted was consistency. So tinkering is a great thing, just not in this hobby.

12. Larger Tanks Take a Lot More Time & Effort

I think it’s really important to know that if you want a big system, you’re going to have to put in big time hours. A small desktop tank might take an hour a week to take care of, but a 100 gallon tank may take five hours.

Everything just takes longer the larger the tank. You have more water volume, you have more glass area, you have more animals. When things go wrong, they go wrong on a much bigger scale. So just be aware that a bigger tank will take a significantly longer time for maintenance each week.

13. It's Really Easy to Over-Clean Your Water

I’m a bit of a neat freak. I like things organized, I like things clean, and those habits have carried over into this hobby.

When I started, as a hobby, we thought less phosphate and nitrate in the water was a good thing. In fact, we thought zero was best. That was a decade ago, and just in case you are not aware…zero nitrates and phosphates is in fact a bad thing.  Corals absolutely need some level of organic nutrients—nitrates and phosphates—in the water to incorporate into their body.

Over-cleaning the water is really easy. Letting things stay at the appropriate level of dirtiness is hard.

Over-cleaning just involves over-filtering. You can filter by changing your filter socks a lot, by adding all sorts of other filtration methods, by adding GFO. It’s easy to get to zero nitrates and phosphates.

It’s also really easy to get to exorbitantly high nitrates and phosphates by overfeeding and not filtering enough. But keeping in that really nice range is challenging because it means you have to constantly test your water and have good tank hygiene practices. So just know it’s really easy to make your tank a little bit too clean.

This video is over eight years old, so the tank is no longer for sale!  But, I broke down this tank because I over-filtered it… I just didn’t know it at the time.

14. A Reefer is a Saltwater Hobbyist

There’s no other connotation for it when it comes to this hobby. If you’re a reefer, that means you have a reef tank—typically fish and some sort of corals. So we call that person a reefer.

15. An All-In-One Tank Does Not Come With Everything

This is still super annoying to me. When you buy an all-in-one something as a beginner, you expect to get everything you need. But in the saltwater aquarium hobby, an all-in-one tank just means that the tank has a rear filtration chamber.

Some all-in-one tanks may come with a lot of gear. For example, our HelloReef tank would be a truly all-in-one tank that comes with all the gear you’re going to need. But you can also get an all-in-one tank that just comes with a tank. All-in-one does not mean you get everything. It just means it has a rear filtration chamber.

All three tanks below are called AIO systems… they do not come with everything!  Don’t believe me? Click on each one to check them out!

Eshopps DeskMate 4.8 Gallon Tank
Innovative Marine 15 Nuvo Fusion
RedSea Max Nano Tank

16. Just Buy An RO/DI Filter

Yes, it may seem like a lot of money upfront, but you can get a simple RO filter from a company like AquaReady for around $110.  It is going to save you so much money, not only in your first year but in every year after that.

And you can just make filtered water at home. You never have to go to the local fish store and lug heavy buckets. You never have to go to the grocery store to get five-gallon containers of RO water. You can just make it at home and save yourself a ton money and a ton of time.

my first rodi filter youtube thumbnail
How To Set Up an RODI Filter

17. You Need A Power Outage Plan

You can’t just set up your saltwater fish tank and wait for a power outage because then it’s going to be too late. The number one killer of livestock during a power outage is not the water being too cold or too hot; it’s a lack of oxygen. Because oxygen enters a tank through the surface, if you have a totally still surface, there is no gas exchange. Carbon dioxide doesn’t escape, and oxygen doesn’t enter.

The easiest thing you can do during a power outage is get a battery-powered air stone which you put into your tank. It creates bubbles, and those bubbles make the surface move, thus saving your livestock. So whatever you do, when you get a tank, you need to have a plan of what to do and have all the gear you need before a power outage happens.

18. To Succeed, You Need To Learn Patience

If you are an impatient person, oh my goodness, you are in for it. If you define patience as hours and minutes, you are in for a learning curve. In this hobby, patience is measured by weeks and months.

Good things in this hobby can take many, many months, and bad things can happen over many, many months. You have to be patient in this hobby, or a least be willing to learn patience.

19. If You're a True Beginner, Just Get the HelloReef Kit

This didn’t exist when I was a beginner, but if you’re a true beginner, just get the HelloReef kit. It’s honestly the best out there.

Obviously, I’m biased as I work for HelloReef, but there’s nothing like it. I made over 50 videos for HelloReef that you can only get with HelloReef Connect, which comes free when you buy the kit. It literally walks you through step-by-step of one really good way to set up your tank.

And not only that, but you get all the gear, and it’s not crappy gear; it’s really high-end gear from high-end manufacturers. There’s nothing else like it on the market.

And yeah, if you want a bigger tank after this one, guess what? You’ve just watched 50 videos and you’ve set up your first successful saltwater aquarium. You now have the basic skills you need to go wherever you want in this hobby.

Check out our blog all about the HelloReef kit here.

HelloReef Clownfish & Anemone Kit

20. This Hobby is Strangely Male Dominated

I’m not really sure why this is. Different strokes for different folks, but in my experience, I’d say 95% of hobbyists are men. It’s not a good or bad thing. But personally speaking, I would have liked to known that because while I like spending my time with the guys, I also like having my girlfriends as well.

There’s nothing wrong with this hobby being male dominated, but if you are not a guy, then please come and join us in this hobby. It would be great to have a few more other voices.

If you don’t believe me, check out the analytics from my personal YouTube page.  With over two million total views, here is the breakdown.

21. All Reef Tanks Are Saltwater Tanks, But Not All Saltwater Tanks Are Reef Tanks.

I didn’t understand this, just like I didn’t understand growing up that all Advil is ibuprofen, but not all ibuprofen is Advil.

We have a lot of jargon in this hobby. And when you’re talking about saltwater tanks, you’re talking about anything, anything that goes in saltwater. That could be fish, that could be corals, whatever it is.

But if we’re talking about reef tanks, a reef tank means it emulates a reef, and really we mean it has some level of corals. It doesn’t have to be a lot of corals. It can be one simple coral. But if you put coral in a tank, it is both a reef tank and a saltwater aquarium.

22. Coral Can Be & Is Extremely Expensive. Get Into Macroalgae

Macroalgae is gorgeous. So many people in this hobby get obsessed with coral, and I get it. Coral is amazing. It’s mesmerizing. It’s gorgeous. It’s challenging. It’s all the things you want from a hobby.

You can spend hundreds, thousands, and even tens of thousands of dollars if you get really high-end coral. Macroalgae is cheap!

Macroalgae is so much easier to keep. It comes in different shapes, different colors, and it is gorgeous and fast-growing. You could fill a 100-gallon tank with $10,000 worth of coral, and it would look nice. You could fill that same tank with $200 worth of macroalgae, and it would look just as nice and save you a whole bunch of money.

The video below should queue at the right spot, showing you an old seahorse/macroalgae tank built. It’s nothing phenomenal, so if you want to see stunning, watch this video…

These Are the 22 Things I Wish I Knew...

What do you wish you knew?  Be well and Happy reefing everybody!

The post 22 Essential Things to Know Before Setting Up Your First Saltwater Aquarium appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> How to Do a Water Change: Solve 80% Of Aquarium Problems https://myfirstfishtank.com/how-to-do-a-water-change/ Sat, 15 Feb 2025 22:48:05 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=531757 Regular water changes keep your saltwater aquarium healthy by preventing cloudy water, sick fish, and unhappy corals—learn how to do them right!

The post How to Do a Water Change: Solve 80% Of Aquarium Problems appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Keeping your saltwater aquarium thriving isn’t just about feeding your fish and keeping the lights on—it’s about maintaining the right water quality. One of the most effective ways to do this? Regular water changes! If you’ve ever wondered how to do a water change properly or why it’s so important, you’ve come to the right place.

Why Are Water Changes So Important?

If you’ve noticed issues like unhappy corals, nuisance algae, cloudy water, or even sick fish, there’s one simple maintenance task that can help—a water change. But why does this work so well?

Think of it this way: in nature, ocean currents constantly refresh water, maintaining a stable, clean environment for marine life. In an aquarium, waste and excess nutrients can build up over time, leading to problems. Performing water changes helps remove unwanted things from the water replenish essential things, creating a stable and healthier ecosystem.

The Science Behind Water Changes

Water changes are like a reset button for your tank. They remove excess nutrients like nitrates and phosphates, replenish essential minerals, and help prevent issues like algae outbreaks and old tank syndrome. But did you know they also set an upper limit on how much of a certain compounds can build up in your tank?

For example, let’s say you have a 100-gallon aquarium and perform a 10% water change every week. Even if you add 10 parts per million (ppm) of nitrate weekly, after 50 weeks your tank will have a maximum of 90 ppm nitrate. Without water changes, that number could climb to 500 ppm—a dangerously high level for your fish and corals.

a red bar graph showing the effects of adding 10ppm substance to an aquarium over 50 weeks with a 10% water change
hamzasreef.com

If you increase your water change to 20% weekly, nitrate levels cap at 40 ppm instead of 90 ppm. 

Additionally, water changes help maintain trace elements necessary for coral health, such as iodine, potassium, and strontium. These elements get used up over time and are not always replenished by food or supplements, making regular water changes even more beneficial.

If you want to fully understand the effects of a weekly water change, check out the reef calculators at Hamza’s Reef.  I use the Water Change Calculators all the time!

How to Do a Water Change Correctly

Performing a water change correctly means causing as little stress to your animals as possible. Primarily, this means making sure your fresh seawater is mixed thoroughly, matches the salinity of the tank water, and matches the temperature of the aquarium. 

Finally, you need to remove tank water and add back in freshly made seawater in such a way as to minimally disrupt your pet’s habitat. This means avoiding hugely disturbing the sandbed and maybe performing the actual water change in a sump or rear filtration chamber to minimize stress.

I will write out the instructions below, but feel free to watch this video I made for HelloReef. It should automatically start at minute 2:37 for you, which is where I get into the nitty gritty.

1. Choosing the Right Salt Mix

Choosing the right salt mix means knowing two things: important water parameters like calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium, and knowing your seawater mixing and storing habits.  Some salts can be mixed and must be used within a few hours, while other salts need to mix for 24 hours, and still, other salts can be stored for weeks at a time.

I’ve already made a blog about my top five beginner salts, so click HERE to check it out.

Directly below are two of my favorites for beginners.  The most budget friendly option is Instant Ocean Reef Crystals, but I personally use Tropic Marin Pro-Reef Salt because it mixes clean and I can store it for months without issue… it does cost significantly more though.  You can click on each of the pictures below if you want to check them out over at Bulk Reef Supply.

a orange and white box of instant ocean reef crystals saltwater mix
Instant Ocean Reef Crystals Salt Mix
product close up of white box of seawater mix from Tropic marin with an hand drawn image of a green coral with purple tips
Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt

You’re going to want to start by choosing a salt that matches your mixing and storing habits, and you just have to read the label on the seawater mix to determine this.

Knowing your calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels and how much they deplete each week is the second step to choosing the right salt mix. Some salts mix to 7.5 dKH, while others mix to 12 dKH. If you’re shooting for a range of 7 to 9 dKH, then choose a salt that will adequately replenish those numbers during your weekly water change.

Or, if you have enough coral and other inverts in your tank to necessitate you starting a two-part dosing regimen, then consider choosing a salt with lower calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels.

Unfortunately there is no right answer here… my best recommendation is to choose a salt and stick with it.

2. Mix & Heat Saltwater

It’s important to mix your salt water really well and also heat it up to closely match the aquarium tank water.

Every saltwater mix has different mixing instructions so, I can’t give you a one and done explanation of how to mix it up… unfortunately. Here’s an example from RedSea’s Coral Pro mix.

photo of back of redsea salt mix showing the directions on how to mix the salt
RedSea Coral Pro Salt Mixing Instructions

Why are the instructions so different depending on the salt? Because different seawater mixes have different levels of additives and some of them precipitate out quickly while others can maintain a stable level. All I can recommend is read the directions on the back of the saltwater mix and follow them closely.

One of the reasons I love using Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt so much is because I can just mix it up, use it almost immediately, and store it indefinitely without the water chemistry changing. But if you don’t plan on storing your water, then don’t go with Tropic Marin because it costs a lot more!

I heat my water to 77° and keep a large 50 gallon drum of it stored in my house at all times. I do that so in case there’s ever an emergency, I can immediately set up another tank with saltwater that’s already warm. It’s also really convenient for weekly water changes because it saves me the hassle of having to mix up a fresh batch.

You can either mix up your fresh seawater by hand, or even easier is to pick up some sort of utility pump to do the mixing for you. I think the Sicce Syncra Silents are perfect for this. Put the pump in a bucket, plug it in, and will do all the mixing for you.

product image on white background of sicce syncra silent aquarium utility pump sitting next to box
Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5

As far as the heater goes, I usually have an extra Eheim Jager sitting around, so I pop that in the bucket and heat up the water. Although to be honest, I’m a big fan of the slightly more expensive Sicce SCUBA Preset, because it is actually accurate and heats the water to 77 degrees without any hassle. It will actually be my new go-to going forward… it’s just that I still have a lot of Eheim Jager’s sitting around so I use them.

product package on white background of sicce scuba pre set aquarium heater
Sicce SCUBA Preset Aquarium Heater

3. Use Gravel Vacuum to Remove 10%-20% Aquarium Water

When possible, I like to do larger water changes, closer to 20%. But doing a weekly 10% water change is still fantastic.

Before you remove any aquarium water, be sure you unplug all of the gear. You definitely don’t want your return pump or heater to run dry during this time!

Your goal during this process is to not stress out your fish or coral. Ideally, remove most of the water from either the sump or rear filtration chamber, as the fish won’t notice this at all. But since you will be doing a larger water change, you will likely have to remove some water from the display tank.

In that case,  it’s a good idea to clean a small portion of the sandbed. I clean 1/4 of the sandbed each week, and do my darndest to not create a sandstorm.

Python 2" Gravel Vacuum on a white background
Python 2" Gravel Vacuum

If you have a smaller tank, a simple 5-gallon bucket will do the trick, but if your tank is larger, you may need a couple buckets or you could invest in one of these Brute trash cans with the dolly.

Brute 20 Gallon Food Grade Trash Can With Lid
Brute 20 Gallon Food Grade Trash Can With Lid
Trash Can Dolly
Trash Can Dolly

I’ve also found that while not at all necessary, this Sicce Ultra Zero Utility Pump is fantastic at transferring the water from the bucket or trashcan into the sink. It’s really cool because you just need to attach a garden hose to it and it can empty water down to a quarter of an inch. As I get older, it’s nice to not have to lift heavy 5-gallon buckets all the time! 🙂

a photo of a black utility pump against a white background.
Sicce Ultra Zero Utility Pump

4. Add Mixed & Warmed Seawater to Display Tank

Now that you’ve cleaned a part of the sandbed and removed 10 to 20% of the water from your display tank, it’s now time to add in the freshly made seawater. If you haven’t already done so, use a refractometer to test the salinity of your water. I always keep mine between 1.025 and 1.026 parts per thousand and that’s worked well for me.

There are a lot of different tools you can use to test the salinity of the water, and I have used them all. I’m just going to recommend this refractometer that comes with calibration fluid because you only have to calibrate it once and it is extremely accurate. The only thing to remember with refractometer is that they are temperature sensitive, so be sure you’re checking the salinity of the water in a warm room with water that is as close to 77°F as possible.

The exterior grey plastic case for a saltwater aquarium refractometer and a small bottle of calibration fluid sitting next to it.
Refractometer w/Calibration Fluid

There’s no real secret to adding freshly made seawater back into your tank other than doing it as carefully as possible, so as not to stir up your sandbed. I like to do this by adding water into the rear filtration chamber or sump in my tanks. You can also do something like pour water over your rockwork or into a filter sock so it disperses more evenly throughout the tank.

The most important things here are to make sure the water is at the correct salinity, that you follow the mixing instructions on the saltwater mix container, and that the water temperature closely matches the aquarium water temperature.

Problems Water Changes Help Solve

While water changes won’t fix every problem in your tank, they can help prevent and mitigate several common issues:

  • High phosphates and nitrates (which fuel algae growth)

  • Low calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium (needed for coral growth)

  • Trace element depletion (essential for coral health)

  • Ammonia spikes (which can be deadly to fish)

  • Old tank syndrome (which happens in tanks that haven’t had consistent maintenance)

  • Accumulation of organic waste that can lead to poor water quality

The Misconception About Water Changes

I’m not saying a water change is going to solve every problem in your tank, but I do think consistent weekly water changes will get you 80% of the way there.

There’s an unfortunate misconception in this hobby that water changes are really only there to alleviate problems once they’ve already happened. But for me, that’s like saying diet and exercise are only needed once you have your first minor heart attack. That just doesn’t make sense to me.

Think of your weekly water change like diet and exercise—you’ll keep your tank healthy and prevent a whole bunch of problems from ever even happening.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know how to do a water change properly, you can see why it’s such an essential part of saltwater aquarium maintenance. By performing regular, well-executed water changes, you’ll keep your tank’s water quality stable, your corals happy, and your fish thriving.

So don’t wait until things go wrong—make water changes a part of your routine maintenance, and your aquarium will reward you with vibrant, healthy life.

The post How to Do a Water Change: Solve 80% Of Aquarium Problems appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> Recommended Saltwater Parameters: The Ultimate Guide for a Thriving Reef Tank https://myfirstfishtank.com/recommended-saltwater-parameters/ Thu, 30 Jan 2025 21:03:25 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=531676 Keeping the right saltwater parameters is key to a thriving reef—learn the ideal ranges for salinity, temperature, pH, and more!

The post Recommended Saltwater Parameters: The Ultimate Guide for a Thriving Reef Tank appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Recommended Saltwater Parameters: The Key to a Thriving Marine Aquarium

Setting up a saltwater aquarium is an exciting and rewarding experience, but maintaining a healthy marine environment requires careful monitoring and adjustment of key water parameters. By keeping your saltwater aquarium within the recommended saltwater parameters, you ensure that your fish, corals, and invertebrates thrive in a stable and well-balanced ecosystem.

In this guide, we’ll cover the essential water parameters, their ideal ranges, and how to maintain them for long-term success.

Click here for a downloadable pdf with all the recommended water parameters.

a chart with all of the commonly tested saltwater parameters with recommended ranges

1. Salinity and Specific Gravity

Why is Salinity Important?

Salinity measures the concentration of dissolved salts in your aquarium water. Marine life, especially corals and invertebrates, are highly sensitive to changes in salinity. Incorrect salinity levels can lead to stress, dehydration, and even death.

Recommended Saltwater Parameters: Salinity Levels

For most reef tanks, the ideal salinity range falls between 33-35 parts per thousand (ppt) or a specific gravity of 1.024 – 1.026. Fish-only saltwater tanks can tolerate slightly lower salinity, around 1.020 – 1.025.

How to Maintain Salinity

  • Use a refractometer or hydrometer to check salinity regularly.

  • Be sure to add RO/DI (Reverse Osmosis Dionized) water to your tank daily to compensate for evaporation, as the salt won’t evaporate (just freshwater evaporates… the salt stays behind). Check out our blog all about RODI units here.

  • When doing water changes, ensure the new saltwater mix is at the correct salinity before adding it to the tank.

I used to use the Hanna Salinity Tester, but it eventually gave out and gave me some incorrect readings, even after calibration, so I went back to the tried-and-true refractometer.  Nothing can really beat it!

Explore refractometers and other salinity testers here.

The exterior grey plastic case for a saltwater aquarium refractometer and a small bottle of calibration fluid sitting next to it.
Refractometer w/Calibration Fluid
Hanna Salinity Tester

2. Temperature

Why is Temperature Important?

Temperature stability is crucial in saltwater aquariums. Sudden changes can stress fish and corals, making them more susceptible to disease.

Recommended Temperature Range

The ideal temperature for a reef aquarium is between 75°F and 80°F (24°C to 27°C). A safe number is to keep your tank always between 77 and 78 degrees.

How to Maintain Temperature

  • Use a temperature controller to keep temperatures stable.

  • Consider an fan if your home gets too warm… It can easily reduce the tank temperature by a few degrees… although it does mean more evaporation.

  • Place the tank away from direct sunlight, air vents, or drafty areas.

  • Use a digital thermometer to monitor temperature fluctuations. A simple meat thermometer from amazon works well!

I personally use a simple stick on thermometer like the one pictured below for my daily use… and then use a meat thermometer to confirm.  The important thing is not so much the temperature (although that matters), but consistency.  

Click on the pictures below to see what I currently use on my tanks.

a product shot of the inkbird temperature controller. It is a rectangular unit with three parts. The first is the controller itself with a grey plastic body and rectangular shape, two lcd display screens and control buttons. Then there is a black rubberized temperature probe. And finally there is a separate portion with two three pronged outlets, both for heaters
Temperature Controller
Aquarium Fan
a packaging shot of a helloreef brander stick on thermometer
Stick On Thermometer

3. pH Level

Why is pH Important?

The pH level determines how acidic or alkaline the water is, which directly impacts marine life’s health and biological functions.

Recommended Saltwater Parameters :pH Levels

A healthy reef tank should maintain a pH between 8.1 and 8.3. Fish-only tanks can tolerate a slightly wider range of 7.8 to 8.4, but fluctuations should be minimized. That being said, if you live in a small home/apartment with other people and pets, and it’s winter and the windows are closed, you will struggle to keep the pH above 8.0. I always struggle with this, so I just dose kalkwasser all the time to get the pH as high as possible, usually around 8.0

How to Maintain pH

  • Regularly test with a high-quality pH test kit.

  • Use buffer solutions if needed to stabilize pH levels. I recommend using kalkwasser in your ato reservoir.

  • Ensure proper aeration and gas exchange to prevent CO₂ buildup, which can lower pH.

  • Open those windows up to let some fresh air in!

Explore pH test kits here

4. Alkalinity

Why is Alkalinity Important?

Alkalinity helps maintain stable pH levels and supports coral growth by providing necessary carbonate ions.

Recommended Alkalinity Levels

For reef tanks, alkalinity should be between 7-12 dKH. Fish-only tanks can have slightly lower alkalinity levels. I aim to keep my tanks around 9 dKH, that way if it swings a bit in either direction, it’s still in the recommended range.

How to Maintain Alkalinity

  • Test alkalinity weekly using a KH test kit.

  • Dose alkalinity supplements (such as sodium bicarbonate or commercial KH buffers) when needed.

  • Perform regular water changes to replenish essential minerals.

There are many good alkalinity test kits out there, but in my opinion, nothing beats the Hanna Alkalinity Checker.  It’s all I use.

I also dose kalkwasser in my ATO reservoir, and make weekly adjustments to keep my dKH around 9.  Not only does kalkwasser keep calcium and alkalnity levels raised, but it has the added benefit of raising the tank’s pH too!

a digital blue alkalinity test kit with the lid open and a small 10ml vial inside with the digitial readout saying 10.0
Hanna Alkalinity Checker
Kalkwasser

5. Calcium

Why is Calcium Important?

Calcium is essential for corals, clams, and other invertebrates to build their skeletons and shells.

Recommended Calcium Levels

Maintain calcium levels between 400-450 ppm in reef tanks.

How to Maintain Calcium

  • Test calcium levels weekly with a calcium test kit.

  • Use calcium supplements if levels drop too low.

  • I prefer to use kalkwasser to keep my calcium levels up.  If that’s not enough, then Tropic Marin’s All-For-Reef works great as a single supplement to dose everything, including calcium.

Explore calcium test kits here.

I don’t actually test for calcium too often since testing for alkalinity is sufficient for me, but when I do test, I still like the Salifert calcium test kit the best.

Salifert Calcium Test Kit

6. Magnesium

Why is Magnesium Important?

Magnesium plays a vital role in stabilizing calcium and alkalinity levels, preventing precipitation.

Recommended Magnesium Levels

Magnesium should be kept between 1250-1350 ppm.

How to Maintain Magnesium

  • Test levels regularly with a magnesium test kit.

  • Supplement with magnesium additives when necessary.

  • Use a balanced salt mix containing proper magnesium levels.

Explore magnesium test kits here. 

I rarely test for magnesium, but when I do, I either use the Salifert or Red Sea test kits. Click on the pictures below if interested.  Salifert is less expensive and works great.

product shot of red sea magnesium pro test kit in a box against a white background
Red Sea Magnesium Pro Test Kit
product shot of salifert magnesium test kit against a white background
Salifert Magnesium Test Kit

7. Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate

Why Are These Compounds Important?

Ammonia and nitrite are toxic to marine life, while high nitrate levels can stress corals and contribute to algae growth.

Recommended Levels

  • Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm

  • Nitrite (NO2): 0 ppm

  • Nitrate (NO3): Ideally below 10 ppm in reef tanks.  I shoot for a range of 3-5, but I don’t start worrying until nitrate gets above 20ppm.

How to Maintain Proper Levels

  • Establish a biological filtration system with live rock and beneficial bacteria.

  • Perform weekly water changes to remove excess nutrients.

  • Avoid overfeeding and remove uneaten food.

I only test for ammonia and nitrite during the cycle… or if trying to troubleshoot something going wrong in the tank.  But I test for nitrates every week.  Nitrates help tell me if something has changed, because the numbers are usually pretty stable.  If my nitrates spike, I know something has gone wrong.

To test for ammonia and nitrite, I have always used and still use the Saltwater Master test kit.  And nothing is easier than the Hanna high range nitrate checker. Click the pictures below to learn more.

front view of api saltwater test kit in original packaging. it's a semi-clear plastic box with a blue plastic lid. A label sticker covers the front, it's blue and yellow, and says API Saltwater Master Test Kit on it
API Saltwater Master Test Kit
Product shot of oval shaped purple Hanna Nitrate HR Checker on white background. LED screen in the center reads 15.0
Hanna Nitrate HR Checker

8. Phosphate

Why is Phosphate Important?

Excess phosphate can fuel algae growth and harm coral health, inhibiting the growth of it’s skeleton.

Recommended Phosphate Levels

I aim to keep my phosphate levels between .07 and .15, but honestly, I don’t like them above .1 for too long because that’s when the algae may start to grow.

How to Control Phosphates

  • Use a phosphate test kit to monitor levels.

  • Employ phosphate-removing media (like GFO) in your filtration system. But only use sparingly and adjust weekly to make sure you don’t bottom out your phosphate which is also bad for your system.

  • Feed frozen food as opposed to pellet or flake food.  Frozen food is less nutrient dense and less likely to add unwanted phosphates to your water.

This is another one of those areas where I only use one test kit… the Hanna Phosphate checker.  It’s just the best I’ve found.

Check out phosphate test kits here

Hanna Phosphate Checker

Routine Testing

Keeping a stable saltwater aquarium requires regular monitoring and adjustments. Here’s a simple schedule:

  • Daily: Check temperature.

  • Weekly: Test alkalinity, nitrate, and phosphate.

  • Monthly: Test calcium and magnesium

Conclusion

By diligently maintaining the recommended saltwater parameters, you create a stable, thriving marine ecosystem that supports healthy fish and vibrant corals. Investing in quality test kits, supplements, and proper maintenance will help you avoid common pitfalls and ensure the long-term success of your saltwater aquarium.

The post Recommended Saltwater Parameters: The Ultimate Guide for a Thriving Reef Tank appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> Affordable Saltwater Aquariums: A Guide to Budget-Friendly Builds https://myfirstfishtank.com/affordable-saltwater-aquariums-a-guide-to-budget-friendly-builds/ Sat, 20 Jul 2024 23:05:40 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=531105 Create a stunning saltwater aquarium on a budget with our guide to three affordable builds!

The post Affordable Saltwater Aquariums: A Guide to Budget-Friendly Builds appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Are you passionate about saltwater aquariums but worried about the costs? Fear not! In this guide, we’ll explore three different affordable saltwater aquarium builds. Whether you’re looking for a simple fish-only setup or a more complex coral reef system, we’ve got you covered. Let’s dive in!

Setting up an affordable saltwater aquarium can be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby. While many believe that saltwater tanks are expensive, it is possible to create stunning setups without breaking the bank. Today, we’ll discuss three budget-friendly builds that cater to different needs and preferences. These setups will help you create the perfect affordable saltwater aquarium that suits your budget.

If you are interested in seeing more budget builds, check out our Build Lists by clicking here.

Ground Rules for Affordable Saltwater Aquariums

Before we dive into the specific builds, let’s establish a few ground rules to ensure that your affordable saltwater aquarium remains cost-effective without compromising on quality.

  1. Budget-Friendly, Not Cheap: The goal is to find budget-friendly options, not the cheapest possible gear. Quality matters, and flimsy equipment can lead to higher costs in the long run.
  2. Brand Agnostic: Choose brands and price points that work for you. We’ll provide suggestions based on what we know and like, but the final choice is yours.
  3. Used Gear: Used equipment can save you a significant amount of money. Look for second-hand options, especially for larger items like tanks and lights.
  4. Local Deals: Purchase gear locally when possible to avoid high shipping costs and support local businesses.
  5. Tank Size: A 20-gallon tank can save you money, but a 40-gallon tank offers more flexibility and space for your aquatic life.

Essential Gear Breakdown

No matter which build you choose, there are 10 essential pieces of equipment you’ll need for your affordable saltwater aquarium:

1. 40-Gallon Breeder Tank

This is a standard size in the pet industry, measuring 36 inches long, 18 inches wide, and 16 inches tall. It’s best to avoid buying tanks online due to high shipping costs. Instead, wait for a local fish store sale where you can usually pick up a tank for under $60. Remember, a full 40-gallon tank will weigh over 300 pounds, so you’ll need a sturdy stand or piece of furniture to support it.

Below is the Innovative Marine 40 gallon tank kit.  It comes with everything you see plus a back or white stand.  If you go this route, you are going to pay quite a bit more.  It’s nice, but to stay budget friendlier, stick with the 40 gallon breeder.

product shot on white background of 40 gallon glass aquarium with all included gear displayed around it including filter sock, plumbing, return pump, acrylic caddy, and magnetic algae scraper

Explore the Innovative Marine 40-Gallon Tank Here

2. Two Heaters

One heater should be set to 77-78°F to serve as your primary heater, and the other set to 74-75°F as a backup. For value, I recommend the Eheim Jager 100W heaters. If your home tends to be colder (below 68°F), opt for the 125W versions. For those interested in a more advanced option, Sicce’s Scuba contactless heaters come with a 5-year warranty and are programmed via your phone.

Eheim Jager
product shot of sicce heater box on white background
Sicce SCUBA

Explore heaters here.

3. Temperature Controller

This piece of equipment is crucial for maintaining stable water conditions. Over time, it will save your animals. Affordable options from Inkbird and Bayite are available. While I prefer the shape and interface of the Bayite, the Inkbird offers models with Wi-Fi for push alerts, which can be very handy.

a product shot of the inkbird temperature controller. It is a rectangular unit with three parts. The first is the controller itself with a grey plastic body and rectangular shape, two lcd display screens and control buttons. Then there is a black rubberized temperature probe. And finally there is a separate portion with two three pronged outlets, both for heaters

Explore temperature controllers here.

4. Hang On The Back Filter

For a 40-gallon system, you’ll want a filter that pumps about 200 gallons per hour (GPH), meaning it filters the entire water volume five times an hour. The Seachem Tidal 55 is a solid choice, but there are more budget-friendly options available online as well.

a black hand on the back power filter with blue accents
Seachem Tidal 55

Explore the Seachem Tidal 55

5. RO/DI Filter

Some intermediate hobbyists might argue this isn’t necessary, but an RO/DI filter ensures your water is free from impurities. While this AquaReady RO filter doesn’t contain the last DI resin stage, I actually tested it myself and it did filter out over 97% of impurities, which is pretty darn good.  

6. Salt Mix

You can choose any commercially available salt mix. Reef Crystals are some of the most affordable, while I personally use Tropic Marin Reef Salt. You’ll need enough to make 40 gallons initially and 5 gallons weekly for water changes, so buy a container that can make at least 90 to 100 gallons of saltwater.

three bags of reef crystal salt against a white background
product close up of white box of seawater mix from Tropic marin with an hand drawn image of a green coral with purple tips

Explore salt mixes here.

7. Refractometer

This tool is essential for measuring the salinity of your seawater. Ensuring proper salinity is crucial for the health of your marine life.

a refractometer product shot against a white background
Refractometer w/Calibration Fluid

8.Test Kit

At a minimum, you need to test for ammonia and nitrite. The API Saltwater Master Test Kit is an affordable and reliable option. Even though I have fancier testers, I still use this kit for ammonia and nitrite testing.

front view of api saltwater test kit in original packaging. it's a semi-clear plastic box with a blue plastic lid. A label sticker covers the front, it's blue and yellow, and says API Saltwater Master Test Kit on it

9. Gravel Vacuum

A good gravel vacuum is indispensable for water changes and maintaining tank cleanliness. Python is a reliable brand, but at the end of the day, any gravel vacuum will do the job.

Python 2" Gravel Vacuum on a white background

10. Algae Scraper

Keeping your tank clean is essential for the health of your aquatic life. You can splurge on a fancy scraper like the Flipper Float, or you can use an old credit card. Just make sure it comes with a stainless steel scraper for the best results.

a two piece magnetic algae scraper against a white background

If you don’t love one of these options, click here to check out our entire list of recommended gear.

Build 01: Fish Only Affordable Saltwater Aquarium

For our first budget build, we’ll focus on a fish-only system. Besides the 10 essential pieces of gear, you’ll need a light, an ammonia/nitrite neutralizer, and some decorations.

Check out our Beginner Guide to Saltwater Fish here.

1. Lighting

While technically optional for a fish-only system, a light helps you better view your fish. Since this build doesn’t include corals, you don’t need a powerful light. A daylight spectrum freshwater strip light is cost-effective and prevents excessive algae growth. You can find these online or at your local fish store, often for under $50.

Explore LED lights here.

2. Ammonia/Nitrite Neutralizer

To keep your fish safe from harmful ammonia buildup, add a product like Seachem Prime to the water during setup and weekly water changes.

white bottle of seachem prime against a white background

3. Decorations

Adding decorations provides hiding places for your fish and enhances the aesthetic appeal of your tank. Use aquarium-safe products to create a visually pleasing environment.

With these additions, the total cost for a fish-only system ranges from $425 to $600.

Build 02: Fish & Soft/LPS Coral Affordable Saltwater Aquarium

The second budget build includes fish and easy-to-care-for corals like soft corals and large polyp stony (LPS) corals. This build requires adding reef rock, a wave maker, and a better light.

1. Reef Rock

Reef rock provides essential surfaces for coral attachment and houses beneficial bacteria. Marco Rocks Reef Saver and CaribSea Life Rock are budget-friendly options. You should aim for at least 40 pounds of rock to give you enough material for aquascaping and bacterial growth.

porous white rock against a white background
MarcoRocks Reef Saver

Explore reef rock here.

2. Wavemaker

Corals benefit from water movement, which helps in nutrient uptake and waste removal. AquaIllumination Nero 3 offers a good balance between performance and price, providing sufficient flow for a 40-gallon tank.

close up product shot of aquaillumination nero wavemaker. It has a black case body, and green propellers. It's on a white background, with swirling water around it to simulate water movement

3. Lighting

For soft and LPS corals, a more powerful light is necessary. The AquaIllumination Blade Grow Light is an excellent choice under $300. It offers a mix of blue and white spectrums specifically designed for coral growth and comes with Bluetooth control through the Mobius app, making it easy to adjust settings.

Explore LED lighting options here.

product image of small led strip light with blue diodes against a white background
AI Blade Light

When you factor in these additional items, the cost for a fish and easy coral system ranges from $900 to $1100.

Build 03: High-Flow, High-Light SPS Coral Affordable Saltwater Aquarium

The third build is for those who want to keep high-flow and high-light demanding small polyp stony (SPS) corals. This setup requires a bit more investment but is still an affordable saltwater aquarium compared to high-end systems. In addition to the essential equipment, you’ll need:

1. Reef Rock

The same advice for reef rock from Build #2 applies here. You’ll need at least 40 pounds of MarcoRocks or CaribSea Life Rock to provide adequate surfaces for your SPS corals.

2. Wavemaker

SPS corals need a lot of water movement. The AI Nero 5 wave maker is perfect for this, providing strong, controllable flow. It’s also compatible with the Mobius app, allowing you to synchronize with your lights for a cohesive system.

close up product shot of aquaillumination nero wavemaker. It has a black case body, and green propellers. It's on a white background, with swirling water around it to simulate water movement
AI Nero 5

3. Lighting

High-demand SPS corals require intense lighting. Using multiple AquaIllumination Blade Grow Lights will ensure proper coverage. For a 40-gallon tank, two grow lights are the minimum, but three lights—two grows and one glow—are preferable. The glow light acts like a black light, enhancing the fluorescent colors of your corals.

product image of small led strip light with blue diodes against a white background
AI Blade Light

With these advanced additions, the cost for an SPS coral system ranges from $1,200 to $1,800.

Final Thoughts

Creating an affordable saltwater aquarium is entirely possible with careful planning and smart choices. By following the guidelines and builds outlined in this blog, you can enjoy the beauty and tranquility of a saltwater tank without overspending. Remember to always prioritize quality and seek out used equipment deals to maximize your savings.

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hobbyist, these affordable saltwater aquarium builds offer something for everyone. Start your journey today and discover the joy of maintaining a vibrant and budget-friendly saltwater aquarium!

The post Affordable Saltwater Aquariums: A Guide to Budget-Friendly Builds appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> How Many Fish Can You Put In A Saltwater Aquarium? https://myfirstfishtank.com/how-many-fish-can-you-put-in-a-saltwater-aquarium/ Mon, 15 Jul 2024 03:25:53 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=530988 Wondering how many fish you can put in a saltwater aquarium? Our comprehensive guide breaks down the key factors to consider—fish characteristics, tank habitat, and filtration efficiency. Discover expert recommendations for five different tank sizes, from a 15-gallon setup to a 150-gallon behemoth.

The post How Many Fish Can You Put In A Saltwater Aquarium? appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Updated 2025

The old adage that you can put one inch of fish per one gallon, five gallons, or even ten gallons of saltwater just doesn’t make sense anymore. Determining how many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium requires a nuanced understanding of three key factors:

  • the fish itself,
  • the habitat,
  • and the filtration system.

In this blog, we will delve into these factors and provide definitive stocking recommendations for five different tank sizes, from a compact 15-gallon setup to a spacious 150-gallon tank.

Key Considerations

1. The Fish

First and foremost, it is crucial to consider the specific characteristics of the fish you intend to keep. Each species has unique requirements and behaviors that can significantly impact the stocking capacity of your tank. Key aspects to consider include:

  • Size: How large will the fish be when fully grown? A juvenile fish might seem small now, but it could quickly outgrow your tank.
  • Diet: What do they eat, and how often? Some fish have specific dietary needs or feeding frequencies that can affect the tank’s nutrient load.
  • Temperament: Are they peaceful, aggressive, or somewhere in between? Compatibility with other tank inhabitants is essential to prevent stress and conflict.
  • Habitat Preference: Where in the tank do they prefer to live? Some fish occupy the bottom, others the middle, and some the top, so a diverse tank can support more fish if their territories don’t overlap.

Check out our Beginner Guide For Saltwater Fish Here.

2. The Habitat

Next, consider the physical environment inside your tank. The layout and composition of your tank can greatly influence how many fish it can support. Important factors include:

  • Tank Dimensions: Is it a tall tank or a short and long one? Horizontal space often matters more than vertical space when it comes to stocking.
  • Substrate: Is there a sandbed, and if so, how deep is it? Some fish, like gobies, need sand to sift through, while others prefer rocky landscapes.
  • Decorations: Are there simple plastic decorations or elaborate rock structures with caves for hiding? Complex environments with plenty of hiding spots can reduce stress and aggression among fish, allowing for a higher stocking density.

3. The Filtration

Lastly, the efficiency and capacity of your filtration system are critical. Good filtration can handle the bioload of more fish, keeping the water clean and parameters stable. Consider the following:

  • Current Filtration: How much filtration does your tank currently have? This includes mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration.
  • Potential Upgrades: How much more filtration are you willing and able to add? Options include fleece rollers, protein skimmers, macroalgae refugiums, turf algae scrubbers, and automatic water change systems. Enhanced filtration can mean the difference between a lightly stocked tank and a vibrant, bustling community.

Explore all of our Gear Guides Here.

Recommendations Based On Tank Size

1. 15 Gallon All-In-One Kit

The HelloReef saltwater aquarium kit box, slightly at an angle showing primarily the front of the box and part of the side. on the front of the box is a large image of an orange clownfish in an anemone, which takes up 3/4 of the panel covering the upper left portion.

Our first example is the 15-gallon HelloReef all-in-one kit. This compact setup comes with a rear filtration chamber equipped with a filter sock, sponge, and ceramic media. Inside the display portion, the habitat consists of a reef rock structure and a 1.5-inch sandbed. Assuming a semi-weekly filter sock change and a 20-30% weekly water change, this tank can comfortably house a few small fish.

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium that’s 15 gallons?

  • Number of Fish: 3
  • Suggested Stock List:

Despite its small size, this 15-gallon habitat can also be filled with various invertebrates such as corals, anemones, sea urchins, snails, and hermit crabs to create a lively and engaging ecosystem.

Explore the HelloReef All-In-One Kit

a pair of orange storm clownfish against a white background
Orange Storm Clownfish © Bulk Reef Supply
yasha goby and pistol shrimp sharing a burrow underneath a rock
Yasha Goby & Pistol Shrimp © My First Fish Tank

2. 25 Gallon All-In-One Lagoon

Next, we have the 25-gallon all-in-one lagoon from Innovative Marine. This tank’s design provides significantly more horizontal space compared to the 15-gallon cube.

Its rear filtration chamber includes a filter sock and fiber filter balls, with enough room to add a protein skimmer or a hang-on-back refugium if needed. The display portion features a 1-inch deep sandbed and plenty of rock work to offer hiding places for the fish. 

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium of this size? 

This mix includes smaller fish that inhabit different areas of the tank, helping them coexist peacefully. Additionally, as with all the tanks discussed, this setup can be enhanced with a variety of invertebrates like anemones, corals, and other cool creatures to create a dynamic and visually appealing aquarium.

Explore the IM 25 Gallon Lagoon Tank

3. 48 Gallon Lagoon Style

Our third tank is the 48-gallon lagoon style from Maxspect. At 3 feet long and 20 inches wide, its dimensions are similar to a standard 40-gallon breeder setup but with enhanced filtration capabilities.

This tank includes a sump with filter socks and a protein skimmer, leaving plenty of room for additional filtration methods like a turf algae scrubber or a macroalgae refugium. With a 2-inch deep sandbed and a large rock structure full of nooks and crannies, this tank provides an ideal habitat for a variety of fish.

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium of this size? Here’s the recommendation:

This is a relatively heavy stocking list, but the robust filtration system can handle the bioload. Keep in mind that hawkfish might prey on shrimp, and filefish can occasionally nip at corals, so monitor their behavior closely.

Explore the 48 Gallon Maxspect Tank

4. 82 Gallon Aquarium with Sump

Our fourth example is an 82-gallon aquarium with a sump from AquaForest. This tank has a similar footprint to the 48-gallon lagoon but offers additional water volume due to its greater height. The filtration system is almost identical, with filter socks, a protein skimmer, and ample space for further upgrades.

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium of this size?

  • Number of Fish: 23
  • Suggested Stock List:
    • 2x Clownfish
    • 3x Pajama Cardinalfish
    • One Sand Sifting Goby
    • One Firefish
    • One Fairy Wrasse
    • 10x Masked Gobies
    • One Algae-Eating Blenny
    • One Aiptasia-Eating Filefish
    • One Longnose Hawkfish
    • 2x Clown Gobies

This setup allows for a slightly higher stocking density, but the key is to choose small, peaceful fish that can coexist without causing stress or conflict.

Explore the 82 Gallon AquaForest Tank w/Sump

5. 150 Gallon Peninsula Style from Red Sea

close up shot of 150 gallon peninsula style aquarium with led lights hanging from ceiling on a white cabinet stand sitting in a nice clean living room. Full of fish and colorful coral

Finally, we have the 150-gallon peninsula style tank from Red Sea. With 150 gallons in the display plus an additional 36 gallons in the sump, this large system can accommodate a substantial number of fish.

Filtration is maximized with a fleece roller mat, a protein skimmer, and either a macroalgae refugium or a turf algae scrubber. Measuring 5 feet long and over 2 feet wide, this tank has a large footprint that is perfect for larger fish such as tangs and angelfish, though we need to balance the number o…

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium of this size?

  • Number of Fish: 52
  • Suggested Stock List:
    • 3x Tangs
    • 5x Anthias
    • 2x Clownfish
    • One Rabbitfish
    • 6x Chromis
    • One Coral Beauty Angelfish
    • 2x Sand Sifting Gobies
    • 2x Algae-Eating Blennies
    • 2x Mandarin Dragonets
    • One Midas Blenny
    • 15x Schooling Masked Gobies
    • One Copperband Butterflyfish
    • 2x Firefish
    • 2x Shrimp Gobies
    • 2x Hawkfish
    • 5x Cardinalfish

This extensive stocking list features a mix of small and large fish, all chosen for their compatibility and unique roles within the tank ecosystem.

Explore the 150 Gallon RedSea Tank

Conclusion

Choosing the right fish, understanding your tank’s habitat, and optimizing filtration are key to maintaining a healthy and vibrant saltwater aquarium. By carefully considering the size, diet, temperament, and habitat preferences of your fish, as well as the dimensions and filtration capabilities of your tank, you can create a thriving aquatic environment.

How many fish can you put in a saltwater aquarium ultimately depends on these factors, but with the right approach, you can enjoy a beautiful and thriving ecosystem

Check out the video for this blog below, and until next time… Be Well & Happy Reefing Everybody! 🙂

The post How Many Fish Can You Put In A Saltwater Aquarium? appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> Are Saltwater Aquariums Good For Beginners? https://myfirstfishtank.com/are-saltwater-aquariums-good-for-beginners/ Sat, 13 Jul 2024 16:07:18 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=530927 Are saltwater aquariums good for beginners? Absolutely! Start with a manageable 40-gallon tank to learn the basics and enjoy educational benefits and soothing water sounds. Avoid common beginner mistakes, and you'll find this hobby rewarding and enjoyable.

The post Are Saltwater Aquariums Good For Beginners? appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Absolutely! If you do it right, saltwater aquariums can be a fantastic hobby for beginners. Here’s how you can get started:

1. Start With Realistic Goals

When asking “are saltwater aquariums good for beginners?” it’s crucial to begin with a realistic goal.

Jumping straight into a 120-gallon mixed reef tank packed with various corals is not ideal for a beginner. The knowledge and experience required for such a setup are immense.

Instead, consider starting with a manageable 40-gallon aquarium. Fill it with some cool fish, an interesting cleanup crew, and a few easy-to-care-for corals. This setup is much more achievable and just as rewarding.

a 20 gallon peninsula style saltwater aquarium on a brown cabinet against a grey background. The tank is filled with vibrant and colorful coral and fish.
20 Gallon Innovative Marine Peninsula Kit

Explore 40 Gallon Aquariums

2. The Learning Journey

The continuous learning in this hobby is what makes it so exciting. Even after a decade, I find myself learning new things from more knowledgeable colleagues like Thomas.

Beginners often ask, “are saltwater aquariums good for beginners?” The answer is yes, but you don’t need to learn everything at once. Focus on the basics:

  • Water and the nitrogen cycle
  • Basic gear and testing (Check out our Gear Guides)
  • Lighting, flow, and maintenance

You don’t need to dive into the complexities of different fish species, their diets, or coral warfare right away. A clear, concise, and well-laid-out path will help you achieve a beautiful and successful aquarium, giving you the confidence to tackle more complex setups in the future.

Explore the HelloReef All-In-One Kit With 50 Included Beginner Videos

3. Benefits of Saltwater Aquariums

So, are saltwater aquariums good for beginners? Yes, and they offer numerous benefits:

  • Educational: You’ll learn a lot about marine biology, chemistry, and the interconnectedness of our oceans and reefs.
  • Soothing: The sound of running water can be incredibly calming.
  • Engaging: If you have kids or are a teacher, a saltwater aquarium provides a fantastic hands-on learning experience.
  • Cool Creatures: From fish with unique personalities to fascinating corals and invertebrates, there’s always something interesting to observe.
  • Purposeful: For many, like myself, saltwater aquariums can provide a sense of purpose and joy, especially during tough times.
close up view of peninsula style saltwater aquarium filled with colorful coral, macroalgae, invertebrates, and fish.
Click on the picture to learn how I built this Caribbean Garden tank

4. Pitfalls to Avoid

To ensure a successful start, here are some common pitfalls to avoid:

  • Don’t Overdo It: Start with a smaller tank to get your feet wet and see if this hobby is for you.
  • Avoid Forums Initially: While forums have great information, they can be overwhelming for beginners. Build a solid knowledge base first.
  • Budget Wisely: The costs can add up quickly. If you think you’ll spend $500, be prepared to spend $1,000.
  • Get Partner Approval: Involve your partner from the beginning to help them understand and support your passion.
  • Be Patient: Success in this hobby takes time. Patience is measured in weeks and months, not days.
  • Avoid Overcrowding: Start with fewer animals and gradually add more as you gain experience.
  • Manage Expectations: Your first tank won’t be perfect. Aim for a simple setup with a few fish and easy corals. Once you’ve mastered that, you can move on to more complex setups.
Here’s a blog I made with my top tips for beginners. It’s a video too!

5. Animal Options for Different Tank Sizes

No matter what size tank you choose, there are plenty of cool pets to consider:

  • Small Tanks (15 gallons): Clownfish, sea urchins, pistol shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, shrimp, conchs, gobies, damsel fish, corals, and anemones.
  • Medium Tanks (40 gallons): Banggai or pajama cardinalfish, six-line wrasse, sand-sifting goby, more corals, small schooling fish, hawkfish, larger gobies, and damsel fish.
  • Large Tanks (120 gallons): Tangs, wrasses, dragonets, angelfish, anthias, butterflyfish, rabbitfish, filefish, jawfish, and many more.
There are a ton of good options out there, so check out my Beginner Guide To Saltwater Fish Here!

6. Final Thoughts

So, are saltwater aquariums good for beginners? Absolutely, especially if you have a good teacher. I hope to be that teacher for you. Check out our Hello Reef kit and YouTube channel for more tips and guidance. Until next time, be well and happy reefing, everybody!

The post Are Saltwater Aquariums Good For Beginners? appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> Top Six Beginner Saltwater Aquariums: Best Picks for New Hobbyists https://myfirstfishtank.com/top-six-beginner-saltwater-aquariums/ https://myfirstfishtank.com/top-six-beginner-saltwater-aquariums/#respond Sun, 23 Jun 2024 15:16:16 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=530767 Discover the top six beginner saltwater aquariums, perfect for new hobbyists! From the budget-friendly IM 20 Long to the premium Red Sea Reefer Max 200 G2, each tank offers unique features to help you start your saltwater aquarium journey.

The post Top Six Beginner Saltwater Aquariums: Best Picks for New Hobbyists appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Here are my top six beginner saltwater aquariums. In this list, price wasn’t a consideration because budgets are highly individualized and depend on personal situations. Most of the tanks on the list are under $1,000, but one is over $3,000!  

Regardless of which tank you end up going with, there will always be some additional gear you need, whether that’s salt, filter, or test kit.

Without further ado, let’s dive into the top six beginner saltwater aquariums, from least to most expensive.

#6: Innovative Marine Nuvo Fusion 20 Gallon Long

rimless glass saltwater aquarium with colorful fish and corals atop a stand

The Innovative Marine 20 Nuvo Fusion all-in-one long tank, priced around $170, is an excellent choice among the top six beginner saltwater aquariums.  

This 20-gallon system includes

  • 2x 130 GPH DC return pumps
  • 2x 200-micron filter socks
  • a pre-installed rubber leveling mat
  • and all necessary plumbing accessories.

While this isn’t the same tank, check out our $340 Budget Build to get an idea of all the other gear you might need.

Measuring 24 inches long, 15 inches deep, and 13 inches tall, it’s a bit shorter than typical 20-gallon saltwater aquariums. However, its depth allows for a large rear filtration chamber that spans the tank’s length.

Innovative Marine is a well-known brand in the saltwater aquarium hobby. They offer a range of small to medium-sized tanks that are well-built, great value, and compatible with a variety of accessories like pre-made mesh screens, multi-level acrylic filter baskets, and nano protein skimmers.

The downside is that you need to decide on the additional gear, such as the light, wave maker, sand, and rock. For beginners, this might be overwhelming, so if that’s you, stick around for number three on this list of top six beginner saltwater aquariums for a comprehensive kit.

Click here to explore the Innovative Marine 20 Gallon Long Tank

#5: Waterbox 25 Peninsula (24 Gallon)

Next on our list of top six beginner saltwater aquariums is the Waterbox Cube 25 Peninsula Nano all-in-one tank, priced around $330.

This nearly 24-gallon tank is made of low iron glass and features…

  • a small rear filtration chamber
  • a generic AC return pump
  • a filter sock
  • a reusable bag of activated carbon
  • two sponges
  • reusable plastic bio balls
  • plumbing
  • and a leveling mat.

Measuring 24 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 16 inches tall, it has two long viewing panels, making it a true peninsula tank.

Although it costs almost double the previous entry, the Waterbox 25 Peninsula offers a lot for its price. It’s a versatile tank that allows for intricate aquascaping.

Despite some gear included, I recommend replacing the AC return pump with a controllable DC pump for better performance and quieter operation. Consider something like the AquaIllumination Axis 40 as a possible ugrade. 

It’s a nice tank, comes with a decent amount of gear, but honestly, if you want to go with a small peninsula style tank, #4 on our list is a better value… And it comes with a silent DC pump… which will save you over $100.

Click here to explore the Waterbox Cube 25 Gallon Nano Peninsula Tank

#4: Innovative Marine 20 Gallon Peninsula Bundle

a 20 gallon peninsula style saltwater aquarium on a brown cabinet against a grey background. The tank is filled with vibrant and colorful coral and fish.

The Innovative Marine 20 Nuvo Fusion Peninsula Pro 2 bundle with APS pedestal is number four on our list of top six beginner saltwater aquariums.

This bundle, priced around $495, includes

  • your choice of black or white aluminum APS pedestal, raising the tank 2.5 inches off the surface for a cleaner look
  • a Mighty Jet 326 GPH controllable DC return pump
  • a 200-micron filter sock
  • a custom acrylic media caddy
  • fiber filter balls
  • a bag of carbon and GFO
  • a small magnetic algae scraper
  • a pre-installed rubber leveling mat
  • and a pre-assembled mesh screen.

I’m not sure how Innovative Marine does it, but these Pro bundles are just a great, affordable, and value packed way for anybody to build a saltwater aquarium.  I’ve owned several IM tanks, and currently have one set up in my own home.

The tank is good quality, and all of the additional accoutrements are nice.  The return pump is fantastic and controllable, and acrylic caddy is high quality and super useful.

The only thing I don’t like about this system, is the included magnetic algae scraper.  It’s small and round, and almost completely useless.  But that doesn’t really matter, because you’ll just spend the extra $50 and buy the amazing Flipper Magnetic Algae Scraper… I own around 8 of them for some reason! 

You will need to pick up a heater, light, and wavemaker, so be prepared to drop a few more hundred dollars.  And the pedestal is nice, but if you want a stand, you can purchase their full size APS stands… but personally I think they are overpriced for what they are.

Click here to explore the Innovatie Marine NUVO Fusion 20 Gallon Pro 2 Peninsula Bundle

#3: HelloReef 15 Gallon AIO Kit

product shot of the contents of the helloreef saltwater aquarium kit, including the 15 gallon glass tank, bag of sand, led strip light, rock, salt, food, bacteria, algae scraper, fish food, heater, and refractometer

Moving to number three on our list of top six beginner saltwater aquariums is the HelloReef 15 gallon all-in-one clownfish and anemone kit. This tank stands out because it truly comes with everything you need, including a $20 gift card toward the purchase of your first fish.

Click HERE to check out our entire blog on this HelloReef Kit.

On top of that, it includes access to HelloReef Connect, an online educational portal with over 50 step-by-step videos divided up into an easy to follow six week course.  And spoiler alert… I made the videos, so get ready to see way to much of my face!

On top of all that, HelloReef also supports ocean conservation by donating 2% of all net proceeds to initiatives like the Florida Aquarium.

It’s a long list, but here you go. The kit includes:

If you are a true beginner, this is the absolute best tank to go with.  For $550, you can’t beat the value, and the HelloReef courses have already taught hundreds of complete beginners everything they need to start their first saltwater aquarium.

Click here to explore the HelloReef 15 Gallon Clownfish & Anemone Tank bundle

#2: Fiji Cube 38 Gallon Peninsula

Product shot on white background of fiji cube 38 gallon peninsula style aquarium. Next to the aquarium are a filter sock, return pump, and acrylic media basket

Number two on our top six beginner saltwater aquariums list is the 38-gallon Fiji Cube Peninsula. Measuring 36 inches long, 16 inches deep, and 16 inches tall, this showstopper is designed for viewing from all angles.

It includes:

Priced at $650, this tank doesn’t come with much gear, so you’ll need to do some research to find compatible equipment.

Don’t be deceived by the pictures… It’s a large tank.  Probably too large for just any ol’ cabinet or desk, because it’s going to weigh over 300 lbs when full. Luckily, Fiji Cube does sell stands with this tank.

The small rear filtration chamber might be a challenge if you plan to stock many fish, because  it’s proportionally small when compared to the tank, but regular large water changes will help mitigate that issue.

This tank is ideal for adventurous beginners willing to invest time in research. But you are going to have to do a lot of research and spend a lot of time figuring everything out.

Click here to explore the Fiji Cube 38 Gallon Rimless Peninsula Tank

#1: Red Sea Reefer Max 200 G2+

product image on white background of redsea reefer max saltwater aquarium on a black cabinet stand. Inside the stand is a glass sump filled with a fleece roller mat, return pump, and protein skimmer.

Topping our list of top six beginner saltwater aquariums is the Red Sea Reefer Max 200 G2+. This 53-gallon setup, including a 42-gallon display tank and an 11-gallon sump, is priced around $3,300. The tank itself is 24″ L x 23″ W x 21″ H.

Yes, it is significantly more expensive than anything on the list, but, you get what you pay for.  For example, if you were to purchase the 38 Gallon Fiji Cube Peninsula Tank, you still have to purchase an expensive light & wavemaker, and then the filtration chamber is too small to even consider some of the gear in this RedSea tank.

This Reefer Max is not for your average beginner.  It is for the beginner who wants it all, the best of the best, tons of gear, and space for a lot of fish and coral.

RedSea is the top-end aquarium manufacturer in the hobby, and over the past decade, they have churned out piece after piece of their own gear.  So not only do you get the tank and stand, but you get so much more… and it’s all super high quality.  Here’s what’s included:

Red Sea tanks are renowned for their quality and integrated systems, making them a great choice despite the higher price point. The only additional gear you’ll need is a heater (plus other smaller items like algae scraper, refractometer, test kits, etc…).

This tank offers a comprehensive setup, perfect for beginners willing to learn about the various components and enjoy a premium saltwater aquarium experience.

I do have a couple pet peeves with this system.  First off, for this price point, I don’t like that there is a large weir inside the tank.  I wish they would take that out, and put an external overflow box to free up space in the tank.  

The other pet peeve are the tank dimensions.  It’s too tall.  It would be so much better to make this tank 5 or 6 inches shorter, and redistribute those inches making the tank wider.  A deep tank is harder to maintain, and can hold less pets than a shorter wider tank.  That’s just because a wider tank has more surface area, and more horizontal space for your pets.

If you want it all, the best of the best, and are willing to spend the time to learn how it all works, this is the tank for you!

Click here to explore the Red Sea MAX 200 G2+

If you want to see the video I made for HelloReef all about these tanks, it’s right below!

The post Top Six Beginner Saltwater Aquariums: Best Picks for New Hobbyists appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> https://myfirstfishtank.com/top-six-beginner-saltwater-aquariums/feed/ 0 Ultimate 4-Month Saltwater Aquarium Guide: Stunning Results https://myfirstfishtank.com/four-month-saltwater-aquarium-guide/ https://myfirstfishtank.com/four-month-saltwater-aquarium-guide/#respond Sun, 09 Jun 2024 15:49:26 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=530526 Setting up your first saltwater aquarium can be an exciting yet daunting task. In this beginner's guide, we explore a detailed tour of my 15-gallon Hello Reef tank, covering essential tips, equipment recommendations, and maintenance strategies to ensure your saltwater aquarium thrives.

The post Ultimate 4-Month Saltwater Aquarium Guide: Stunning Results appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Are you considering setting up your first saltwater aquarium but need some specific details and inspiration? Let’s take a tour of my HelloReef tank, which has been up and running for about four months now. Let’s call this blog the “4-Month Saltwater Aquarium Guide”, because this is what your tank can look like too!

Check out this setup guide all about the HelloReef kit here if interested. We talk all about what’s inside.

Tank Overview

The tank is a 15-gallon all-in-one style system with high clarity, low iron glass, a three-compartment rear filter, and a pre-attached foam mat base. The 15 gallons are divided between the large display portion and the smaller rear filtration chamber. The overall tank dimensions are 15 inches wide, 15 inches long, and 15 inches tall, making it a 15-inch cube. The primary display chamber is 15 inches long by 11 inches wide, while the rear filtration chamber is 15 inches long by 3.5 inches wide.

Shop for the HelloReef Kit here

shot of 15 glass tank with purple rock structure sitting on top of a wooden table. Overlay bubble with tank specs.

Rear Filter Chambers

The rear filter consists of three chambers:

  • Chamber 1: 3.5 inches by 3 inches
  • Chamber 2: 6.5 inches by 3.5 inches
  • Chamber 3: 3.5 inches by 4 inches

When fully loaded with sand, rock, and seawater, the tank weighs approximately 165 pounds. While discussing tank measurements might seem dull, you’ll find these specs helpful when you want to add upgraded gear to simplify maintenance.

Equipment and Upgrades

In this ultimate 4-month saltwater aquarium guide, I’m using all the gear that came with the HelloReef kit, with a few added upgrades that make life easier and enhance tank stability.

Display Portion

In the display portion of the tank, you’ll find:

  • Sand: 10 lb bag of CaribSea’s Arag-Alive Coraline Sand
  • Rock: CaribSea Life Rock
  • Wave Maker: AI Nero 3. This is an upgrade from what came in the kit.
  • Thermometer: BRS Thermometer
  • Light: Aqua Illumination 12-inch Blade Grow Light

All of this gear is included in the HelloReef kit, except where noted.  If you want to explore all of our gear recommendations, then check out our Gear Guide page here.

close up product shot of aquaillumination nero wavemaker. It has a black case body, and green propellers. It's on a white background, with swirling water around it to simulate water movement
AI Nero 3 Wavemaker Upgrade
AI Axis 20 Return Pump Upgrade

Rear Chamber

In the rear chamber, we’ve got:

  • Filter Sock: Included
  • Sponge Pack: Included
  • Carbon Bag: Included
  • Ceramic Biomedia: Included
  • Heater: Eheim Jager Heater
  • Return Pump: AI Axis 20 (this is a DC powered upgrade from what came with the kit)

Additional Gear

I’ve added a few extras for redundancy, consistency, and to make my life a bit easier:

  • Temperature Controller: Inkbird with saltwater and corrosion-proof probes
  • Second Heater: Set to 75°F as a backup
  • Auto Top Off Unit (ATO): Tunze Osmolator Nano unit
a product shot of the inkbird temperature controller. It is a rectangular unit with three parts. The first is the controller itself with a grey plastic body and rectangular shape, two lcd display screens and control buttons. Then there is a black rubberized temperature probe. And finally there is a separate portion with two three pronged outlets, both for heaters
Inkbird Temperature Conroller
product shot of tunze osmolator nano in a box on white background
Tunze Osmolator Nano ATO

Temperature Controller

The Inkbird temperature controller has a probe and a power outlet. I placed the probe in the display portion of the tank and set the controller to maintain water temperature between 77 and 78°F. This controller not only keeps the temperature consistent but also has a high and low alarm function to alert me if something goes wrong. While the heater does a good job, a temperature controller does it better and acts as a backup if the heater fails.

I wouldn’t just add a controller for this ultimate 4-month saltwater aquarium guide, I would add a controller to every tank.

Second Heater

Adding a second heater may seem redundant, but it provides an additional safety net. I set the second heater to activate at 75°F, ensuring that if the primary heater fails while I’m away, the tank temperature won’t drop too low.

Auto Top Off Unit (ATO)

The ATO unit automatically replenishes evaporated water, which is crucial when I’m not home to do it manually. I’m using the Tunze Osmolator Nano unit, but other options like the Reef Breeder Prism ATO or the IceCap Gravity ATO would also work well. I keep a 5-gallon bucket of filtered water in the cabinet under my tank as the reservoir, eliminating the need for manual top-offs.

Animal Stocking

In the display tank, I’ve stocked:

  • Two Ocellaris Clownfish
  • Two Peppermint Shrimp
  • One Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
  • One Tuxedo Sea Urchin
  • Five Astrea Snails
  • Five Cerith Snails
  • Five Hermit Crabs
  • Ten Rose-Colored Captive Raised Bubble Tip Anemones from Worldwide Corals

I’m still waiting for my clownfish to host the anemones. Recently, I saw the smaller clownfish touch its tail to one of the anemones, so I’m hopeful they will eventually take to each other. I’ve tried the old trick of placing a picture of clownfish in anemones on the side of the tank, but no luck yet. However, based on past experience, I know it can take time.

World Wide Corals has great stuff, but you should also check out Top Shelf Aquatics and Seahorse Savvy for other great pet options.

Maintenance and Adjustments

To maintain a healthy environment, I’ve made several adjustments based on testing and observation:

Feeding Schedule

I’ve adjusted my feeding schedule because my nitrate and phosphate levels were creeping up too high, even with consistent weekly 10% water changes.

BRS Pellet Diet
product shot of a blister pack of frozen Hikari mysis shrimp. It has a purple label with a seahorse and coral on it.
Hikari Mysis Shrimp

Water Testing and Adjustments

I test my water three times a week for nitrate, phosphate, and alkalinity. When nitrate and phosphate levels started creeping up, I adjusted the feeding schedule and increased the frequency and volume of water changes from 1 gallon to 5 gallons weekly. Additionally, I became more consistent with changing out the filter socks every two to three days and started a weekly sand bed cleaning using a Python gravel vacuum.

I’ve found that frozen food in the afternoon instead of pellets has helped, but the levels were still rising. I have a pretty wide tolerance for nitrate and phosphate levels, but I get concerned when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm and phosphate hits 0.2 ppm because quick swings or elevated levels can harm anemones. To stabilize and reduce these levels, I:

    • Changed Feeding Routine: Switched the afternoon feeding to frozen food.
    • Increased Water Changes: Upped the volume to 5 gallons weekly.
    • Frequent Filter Sock Changes: Every 2-3 days.
    • Weekly Sand Bed Cleaning: Using a Python gravel vacuum.

Alkalinity Management

Despite larger water changes, I noticed my alkalinity was decreasing due to the growth of coralline algae and the needs of my invertebrates. To counter this, began dosing kalkwasser.

Coralline algae and invertebrates like my sea urchin, shrimp, hermit crabs, and snails use alkalinity to secrete calcium carbonate shells. To ensure stable alkalinity, I use Kalkwasser (lime water) in addition to my weekly water changes. This has helped maintain a safe range for alkalinity.

Amino Acids & Beneficial Bacteria

I have always struggled with keeping my anemones healthy.  In fact, when I first started this tank, I had shipment anemones that slowly faded away.  Depressing and frustrating.  

It’s not like I don’t know what I’m doing.  I’ve consulted personally some of the greatest and most skilled keepers of anemones in the hobby.  I’ve followed everything they’ve told me, still to no avail.

The only thing I could think of, is that I tinker too much, gravel vac too much, and just upset the ecosystem.  I vowed not to do it with this tank.

And on top of that, some advice I was given from an anemone pro, was to dose Brightwell Aquatics Coral Amino and Microbacter7 every week after the water change. So that is what I do!

product shot of coral amino product. Small dark blue glass bottle with black dropper lit
8 oz black bottle with black cap of brightwell aquatics microbacter 7 beneficial bacteria on white background

Observations and Future Plans

I’ve noticed a healthy population of copepods thriving in the tank, feeding on diatoms in the sandbed. While I still see some diatoms, they serve as food for my snails and copepods, which is beneficial as long as I don’t get nuisance algae like green hair algae or bryopsis.

I’m hopeful that my clownfish will eventually host the anemones, and I’ll continue monitoring and adjusting as needed to maintain a stable environment.

Before & After Photos

The tank is looking amazing.  It’s the favorite tank I’ve ever built, and to be honest, it’s all I’ve ever wanted.  A tank with a couple clownfish and covered in clownfish.

It’s actually been about 8 months now since I’ve set up this tank, and I’ll put a few pictures below of the tank throughout the months so you can get a sense of how much it has matured.

The post Ultimate 4-Month Saltwater Aquarium Guide: Stunning Results appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> https://myfirstfishtank.com/four-month-saltwater-aquarium-guide/feed/ 0 Saltwater Aquarium Tips For Beginners: Don’t Fail Year One https://myfirstfishtank.com/top-tips-for-saltwater-aquariums/ Sun, 05 May 2024 17:10:45 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=529144 Get started with saltwater aquariums and reef tanks with these essential tips for beginners. Success starts with starting right!

The post Saltwater Aquarium Tips For Beginners: Don’t Fail Year One appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

Updated 2025

1. Buy An RODI Filter

Explore RODI Filters

2. You Only Learn About Saltwater Aquariums By Doing

You can only research so much. I don’t know if you were like me, but when I started out, I read and read and read, and I watched tons of videos. I scoured different forums. Bulk Reef Supply YouTube had started a few years before. I remember watching newyorksteelo. I was inundated with too much information. And at some point, I just had to pull the trigger and start building my tank.

Think about it. If you want to learn to be any sort of professional or good at any sort of hobby, let’s take piano, for example. You can’t just read about how to play the piano. You actually have to sit down and play the piano. It’s the exact same with saltwater aquariums. You can learn a lot and do your due diligence beforehand, but at the end of the day, it’s only that hands-on experience that’s going to make you learn and grow in this hobby.

3. Test 2x Each Week

An often overlooked saltwater aquarium tip for beginners, water testing. Now, I don’t mean you have to test for every single thing. Sure, I want to test for ammonia and nitrite at least twice a week when I’m cycling my tank. But once the tank is cycled, I don’t really ever test for those things anymore.

So then what do I mean by test twice a week? I would test for your alkalinity, your nitrate, and your phosphate twice a week. I would do this probably at least for the first 6 months after starting up a new system. You’re going to notice that there are all sorts of swings in your tank, little mistakes you make, coral growth, something dies, and it’s going to set things off. And the best thing you can do is catch a swing early so that you can do something like a large water change to get ahead of any problems.

Here are the Bulk Reef Supply recommended water parameters, and click here to read the full blog article.

And be sure to check out our favorite test kit gear guides.

a graph with three columns. Column one has the name of an important element for saltwater aquariums, column two has recommended levels for aquariums, and column three has average ocean values.
product picture of hanna instruments blue colored alkalinity checker on a white background. Bright blue plastic oval with a large led screen in the middle with a current reading of 10 dkh.
Product shot of oval shaped purple Hanna Nitrate HR Checker on white background. LED screen in the center reads 15.0
ultra low range hanna colorometer, green on white background with PO4 reading of 0.5 ppm

Explore Test Kits

4. Use a PAR Meter... An Often Overlooked Beginner Saltwater Aquarium Tip

I’m not saying you have to go out and buy a PAR meter because that is an expensive thing for a lot of people, and not a very good beginner saltwater aquarium tip! So you really have one of two options. One is to borrow a PAR meter. Your local club probably has one. You might be able to rent one from your local fish store. But knowing the exact output of your lights is crucial. And you only have to do this once.

We honestly can’t tell if something is low PAR or high PAR because our eyes don’t see certain wavelengths of blue very well, and blue packs a punch.

So you have one of two options. One, you can buy a light and follow instructions that somebody else has done so that you are matching their settings exactly and you’ll know their PAR. Or whatever light you get, either purchase, rent, or buy a PAR meter. Set it up right the first time, and then you can forget about your lights. 

Explore Par Meters

5. Start With the End Goal: What's Your Dream Saltwater Aquarium?

What do you want out of a tank? I have said this for years now, going back over a decade of making videos on YouTube, but you need to know what your end goal is.

If you want something like a small, HelloReef tank, 15 gallons, that’s going to be something completely different than a 300-gallon behemoth that you want to put some baby shark into.

You need to know your goal so that you can build a tank appropriately. For me, I’ve built a ton of tanks in my life, and I’ve tried a whole bunch of different things, but the most satisfying for me at this stage in the hobby is something small, around the 15-gallon size.

So know your goal first, and then you can go about doing the research you need to succeed.

a middle aged caucasian male taking a picture of a small saltwater tank.
Me just starting out my HelloReef tank
a small darkly lit saltwater aquarium completely filled with rainbow bubble tip anemones
My HelloReef tank after one year

Explore tanks here

6. Feed Frozen Food... Not Pellets. Biggest Beginner Mistake

I don’t mean only feed frozen food, but if you’re choosing between frozen food and pellet food, do the majority of your feeding with frozen food. It’s really high in protein, doesn’t have fillers, and won’t pollute your tank nearly as much.

If you primarily feed pellets, they are super nutrient dense and, especially for beginners, really easy to overfeed. But if you use frozen food, something like Hikari Mysis Shrimp, it is way more difficult to overfeed.

Check out our fish food gear guide if you want to see some of our favorites.

So at the end of the day, favor frozen food over pellet food. And of course add in whatever other foods your animals need, some algae wafers, nori, shrimp pellets… you get the idea.

Explore Frozen Foods

7. Don't Give Up. Beginner's Usually Don't Make it a Year

It’s really the only way to fail in this hobby, and I mean that.I think I’ve set up well over 20 tanks in the past decade, and many of them have completely failed.

My first tank was a Red Sea Reefer 170, and it failed because I ran way too much GFO, which was a big thing over a decade ago. My second tank failed because I just got lazy with it. I let it get taken over by nuisance algae and then didn’t put in the work to care for it.

There are various reasons our tanks fail, and you have to be gentle with yourself because you’re a beginner, and you’re not going to get everything right the first time. But when you fail, if you take it as a learning opportunity and then learn and grow and get better at this hobby, fantastic.

But if you fail and say, “I suck, this is not for me, I can’t do this hobby,” and you quit, well, that’s the only time that you failed. So don’t give up, and you’ll never fail in this hobby.

iphone photo of a saltwater aquarium reef tank. There are a few corals inside with some purple looking algae covering a white sandbed. The point of this image is to show a tank that failed.
My first tank, the Red Sea Reefer 170

8. Do A 20% Weekly Water Change: The Most Important Beginner Tip

I know there are people out there who are intermediate to advanced hobbyists who don’t do water changes. But let me tell you, that is not for beginners for a whole host of reasons.

I’ve also said in the past that doing a 10% weekly water change is great, and absolutely, a 10% weekly water change is great. With a weekly 10% water change, the maximum amount of pollutants you can add is limited to 10x.  Check out this chart from Hamzas Reef. 

If I add 0.1 ppm phosphate to my tank each week while doing weekly 10% water changes, I max out high much phosphate can ever get into my tank at 10x that amount, so 1.0 ppm. And if I don’t do a weekly water change, those phosphates would keep going up and up.

A red bar graph with 25 columns which tracks what would happen if you add 0.1 ppm phosphate to a tank each week while performing a 10% weekly water change. The point of the graph is to show the positive benefits of water changes in a saltwater aquarium

But if you do a 20% weekly water change, especially if you have something small like a 15-gallon system, that’s only three gallons a week. Really easy to accomplish, and you are going to have so much more success.

I’ve actually gone further than 20% a week, and on this HelloReef tank here, I do five gallons a week, which is probably somewhere around 40%. I do this because I’ve been overfeeding a little bit, and my nitrates and phosphates have been creeping up. So rather than deal with things like GFO or carbon dosing, just do a larger water change once a week. It’s not that expensive, your animals are going to love it, and it’s going to stop a lot of problems from even starting.

If you decide to do a large water changes like me, it’s super important that the freshly made seawater is the same temperature as your tank.  That way you don’t shock your animals!

9. Get Two Heaters and a Temperature Controller

I don’t mean you have to go out and get some sort of fancy aquarium controller. I’m talking about a temperature controller, either something from Inkbird or Bayite. These can range anywhere from $30 to $60, give or take. Here’s our temperature controller recommendations.

Now, why two heaters? Well, you’re going to have one that is plugged into your temperature controller. That’s going to be your primary heater that keeps your tank from 77 to 78 degrees.

But at some point, that heater will die. It might be five years, might be 10 years, might be two years. I don’t know. I’ve had good luck with heaters, and mine have lasted for many, many years. But when that heater dies, you want that second heater to kick on before the tank gets too cold.

So that first heater you plug into the temperature controller keeps your tank 77 to 78 degrees. When that heater eventually dies, you’ve had a second heater sitting in there set to 74 or 75 degrees that will automatically kick on and save your tank. Here’s our heater gear guide.

And you’ll know when that happens because your temperature controller has an alarm on it. So you can set it to go off at 75 or 76 degrees, knowing that your primary heater is broken and it’s time to take your secondary heater, move it to the primary position, and buy a new heater to act as backup.

a product shot of the inkbird temperature controller. It is a rectangular unit with three parts. The first is the controller itself with a grey plastic body and rectangular shape, two lcd display screens and control buttons. Then there is a black rubberized temperature probe. And finally there is a separate portion with two three pronged outlets, both for heaters
A product shot on a white background of three different sized aquael ceramic heaters. Each one is made of black plastic, has a suction cup on the back, and a control dial near the top with led lights that show the temperature.

Explore Temperature Controllers

Explore Heaters

10. Stick to the Basics and Learn As You Go

Here’s what I mean by this. Don’t go out and buy every piece of gear you might need someday.

It’s really easy to do something like over-filter your water if you have multiple filter socks, a fleece roller mat, a macroalgae refugium, an oversized protein skimmer, an algae scrubber, ozone reactor, and a UV sterilizer. If you have all of these things and you put them in your tank day one, you’re going to over clean the water, and that’s going to spell disaster for corals.

Your fish are going to be fine with that, but your corals are absolutely not. Rather, start simple. You don’t need anything fancy. Start with simple filtration like a sponge or filter sock. Then, as you grow in this hobby, as your tank matures, as you water test and you find the areas where your tank is lacking, then you can add in filtration as needed.

Maybe it’ll be time for a protein skimmer, or maybe the best bet is going to be adding some sort of copepod refugium. You’ll figure that out as you go along. Just don’t add it all at the beginning. So stick to the basics, don’t overdo it at the beginning, and only tackle problems as your tank matures.

11. Buy DC Pumps & Wavemakers. AC Pumps Vibrate Annoyingly

DC pumps cost more than AC pumps. In most tanks, you are going to have both a return pump and a wavemaker. You might have some other pumps in there as well, but those are the primary ones and the ones that are going to be on all the time.

When you’re new to the hobby, the buzzing from AC pumps may not bother you, but as soon as you switch to a DC pump and it runs completely silently, it’s going to blow your mind because it’s just so much nicer.

Not only are DC pumps virtually silent, but they’re also controllable. And having a controllable pump is super handy for adjusting the flow, to getting it just where you want it, or for creating randomness in your aquarium, which is great for your anemones and corals.

Here’s our Wavemaker Gear Guide and here’s our Return Pump Gear Guide.

close up product shot of aquaillumination nero wavemaker. It has a black case body, and green propellers. It's on a white background, with swirling water around it to simulate water movement
AI Nero DC Wavemaker
product shot of the white and red reef octopus varios dc return pump with the rectangular white controller.
Reef Octopus VarioS DC Pump

Explore DC Powered Pumps & Wavemakers

12. Pick One Source of Information

Pick one source of information and stick with it. Be sure the source you choose shows both their successes and their failures. Nobody is perfect in this hobby, and if somebody tries to convince you that they are, it’s probably good to stay away from them because they’re either miraculous or they’re not being completely honest with you.

The problem with consuming too much information is different recipes can’t be mixed and matched easily. Imagine making cookies. You could find 10 different recipes and then combine those 10 recipes together, and you’re going to get a really crappy cookie. Each recipe by itself would likely make a good cookie, but you can’t mix them all together.

It’s very similar to that in this hobby. There are many, many ways to build and maintain a successful saltwater aquarium. Just don’t go mixing and matching and putting them together because it’s probably not going to work.

Rather, find a good source of information, whether that’s My First Fish Tank, whether that’s Bulk Reef Supply, whether that’s someone on a forum, and stick with it. Then once you get your feet wet in this hobby, then you can put out your feelers to other sources to help advise you and grow your knowledge in this hobby.

13. Use a Mesh Screen or Lid

Typically when we’re talking about a screen, we’re talking about some sort of mesh. It allows for good air and gas exchange between the surface and the air, but it’s also going to evaporate quite a bit of water from your tank.

Whereas if you use a glass lid, you will cut down a lot on evaporation, but the tank will retain more heat.

Using a screen or a lid is just good practice to protect your fish. There are a ton of fish that are known jumpers: gobies and wrasses to name a couple, but there are other fish that aren’t known jumpers that will sometimes jump if they’re scared. Here’s a primer on beginner saltwater fish.

For example, I had this clownfish in one of my tanks for many years.  No lid, no mesh screen, and no problem.  One day I can’t find her, and sure enough, she jumped and was dead on the floor. It was awful.

So do yourself a favor, get a lid, a mesh screen, build one for yourself, have someone make it for you so that it looks nice, cuts down on evaporation a little bit, and also makes your fish safe.

close up of a corner of a clear mesh screen with black plastic rim sitting on top of a tank filled with water
IM Mesh Screen

Explore Mesh Screens

14. Get What You Want the First Time

What do I mean by that? If you know and have your heart set on a 120-gallon mixed reef system, but it’s just out of your price range right now, rather than buying something smaller, save up for it and get what you want the first time.

That’s not universally good advice. If you know it’s going to take you years to get there and you have a good deal on something small, yeah, absolutely, go ahead and get that smaller system because there’s a lot to learn and a lot of joy to be taken from a smaller system.

But if you know there’s only one reason you want to get into this hobby, one type of pet or animal that you absolutely have to have, then just be a little patient, save up your money, and get the gear you need the first time.

Check out our saltwater aquarium build lists at all different price points and sizes.

15. Use a UV Sterilizer

I don’t know if this one’s controversial or not, but I’m going to say it anyways!

Some people will say it’s completely unnecessary, and they may absolutely be right, but I just know this: when I’ve used a UV sterilizer on a system, I’ve had way more success than when I have not.  Of course it’s just anecdotal evidence, but I’m convinced.

There are some really good UV sterilizers out there in an 8-watt or a 15-watt size that don’t need fancy plumbing. Yeah, I have some bigger UV sterilizers that can be plumbed into your larger tanks, but there are some really cool ones from Aqua UV that are hang on the back UV sterilizers. Literally, you hang it on the side, you add a pump, and you are now UV sterilizing your small tank.

So again, I don’t know if it’s just chance, but I would recommend getting a UV sterilizer. It will help cut down on all sorts of bad things in your tank, help your fish thrive, and maybe avoid some of the nasties like dinoflagellates.

product shot of small black hang on the back Aqua UV sterilizer on white backdrop
Aqua UV HOB Sterilizer

Explore UV Sterilizers

16. Use Velcro Cable Ties

Our final beginner saltwater aquarium tip… I learned this the hard way. Wire management, of course, is absolutely crucial. You’ll be shocked and dismayed with how many different cables it takes to run a small system. So in the past, I had used normal cable ties to keep my wires secured and cinched together.

But then you have to do one thing, maybe you have to change a heater out, maybe you need to clean a pump, and the only way to do that is to pull it off of your system and take it to the sink. But then you have to go through and cut all those cable ties.

And not only that, but I have hurt myself. I’ve had deep gouges in my skin from cable ties that I hadn’t cut perfectly.

Velcro cable ties are the answer. I buy huge packs of them and use them all around the house. Using Velcro cable ties not only will save your arms from getting cut, but they will allow you to make changes and do maintenance on your gear easily and whenever you need it.

The post Saltwater Aquarium Tips For Beginners: Don’t Fail Year One appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]> Week 19: Saltwater Filtration Overview https://myfirstfishtank.com/week19-saltwater-filtration/ Fri, 25 Jun 2021 15:28:58 +0000 https://myfirstfishtank.com/?p=524270 A basic overview of saltwater aquarium filtration, we will go in depth in future articles!

The post Week 19: Saltwater Filtration Overview appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>

After successfully cycling your saltwater aquarium, it’s time to establish your filtration system. Filtration is crucial to ensure the safety and well-being of your aquatic inhabitants, as well as to maintain the overall health and appearance of your tank. There are three primary types of filtration—biological, mechanical, and chemical—each serving a unique purpose in purifying and maintaining the water quality of your aquarium. By combining these filtration methods in various ways, you can create a customized filtration system that suits your specific saltwater aquarium needs. As you set up your filtration, consider selecting appropriate gear that aligns with your chosen filtration methods and the characteristics of your tank. Remember that refining and adjusting your filtration setup over time can contribute to the long-term success of your aquarium.

This Week's Video:

What is Saltwater Aquarium Filtration?

Aquarium filtration can be a topic of varying depth, depending on your desired level of understanding. While some enthusiasts opt for advanced gear and complex procedures, many hobbyists prefer a streamlined and efficient filtration system that’s both cost-effective and time-efficient. Striking the right balance is key—ensure simplicity without sacrificing the effectiveness of your filtration setup.

To guide you in creating an optimal setup, it’s essential to comprehend the three main types of filtration: biological, mechanical, and chemical.

Biological filtration holds great significance as it addresses the most prevalent toxin—fish waste. This filtration type involves cultivating live bacteria that metabolize waste and convert it into less harmful compounds, ultimately removed through other filtration methods or routine water changes. Essentially, these bacteria serve as your filtration workforce. To enhance biological filtration, ample surface area is crucial, provided by aquarium sand, rocks, and specialized biological media. Additionally, promoting efficient water flow through these surfaces ensures the bacteria’s effectiveness.

Mechanical filtration focuses on removing floating debris like uneaten food and waste particles from the water. The filter pad or sponge’s pore size determines what is captured; smaller pores catch more debris but necessitate more frequent cleaning. Balancing thoroughness and maintenance frequency is a personal choice that impacts your tank’s cleanliness.

Chemical filtration addresses compounds that can’t be managed solely by bacteria or mechanical filtration. While water changes assist in removing these compounds, chemical filtration, often utilizing activated carbon, is adept at tackling various chemicals and toxins. Activated carbon also eliminates odors and clarifies water color. Incorporating chemical filtration as part of your setup can significantly enhance water quality.

Understanding and implementing these filtration types will contribute to a healthier and more vibrant aquarium ecosystem.

Filtration Gear and Methods

  • HOB (Hang On Back) Filter: A straightforward filter that hangs on the side of your aquarium, primarily providing mechanical filtration. While it may have room for some chemical or biological media, I’d recommend it for aquariums up to around 10-15 gallons. Keep in mind that HOB filters are hard to conceal and can disrupt the clean aesthetic you might want.

  • AIO (All In One) Filter: Despite the name, an AIO filter involves a distinct compartment within your aquarium dedicated to filtration. It offers the advantage of centralizing filtration within the aquarium itself. This option is excellent for its simplicity and visual appeal, suitable for tanks up to approximately 30 gallons. For larger setups, consider opting for a sump.

  • Sump: Essentially a secondary aquarium situated beneath your display tank, a sump is designed to house all your filtration equipment and other concealed items. Among filtration methods, a sump offers tremendous versatility and space for filtration, though it is more complex and costly to set up.

  • Canister Filter: A blend between an HOB filter and a sump, canister filters are less common in saltwater setups due to their comparable cost to sumps while offering fewer benefits and flexibility. These can be a practical choice in specific scenarios, but their use is relatively limited.

    Additionally, there are accessories that, depending on your configuration, can also serve as primary filtration components. These include reactors, scrubbers, refugiums, and sterilizers. Each of these accessories can play a role in enhancing your filtration setup based on your specific needs and preferences.

The post Week 19: Saltwater Filtration Overview appeared first on My First Fish Tank.

]]>